Locks that work

You are a generous lover.

Beware that this is likely to be too small to use with any decent chain as it quotes "Eye i/d: 34mm".

Beware also that any home-grown solution that doesn't have a formal approval will probably not satisfy the requirements of your insurance.

Perhaps there should be another thread: "Ground anchors that work" ?
:-)

I went to a local steel merchant and just the fella with a blowtorch to knock me up a ground anchor for peanuts.

Grabbed a thick bar out the scrap bin, I suggested a shape with long bendy bits to sink into the concrete and he quickly made it how I wanted.

Sure its not a high grade of stainless, but it is very thick.

Yeah, the link I found was just the best I could be arsed looking for, we've got some rings that I found in a steel merchant, double bolted into the wall, with a securing plate on the other side. I put them in when removing a cole shute, you'd need to cut about 30mm of steel or remove several square feet of double layer structural brockwork.

I've read a few reviews where the key has snapped in Kryptonite locks too: My Kryptonite NY 3000 started getting stiff, presumably from rust, after just one week of ownership, although a drop of mineral oil and plenty of WD40 squirted where the hasp goes seems to have cured it.

Just 1 week?? Use WD40 to free up corrosion and rust, then you need some graphite lock lubricant to keep it slick. That should give some protection against the weather too. I've not tried it, I just read that's what you are supposed to do ¬.¬

The quality is inferior to my Krypto mini D and I'd feel less happy leaving it out in the rain.

Better to buy something higher quality that you can use outside. But a good alternative for indor use only. Imagine buying a few of these OnGuard locks instead of an Almax Security chain and padlock. It would look stupid but really secure.

Sure its not a high grade of stainless, but it is very thick.

It has to be hardened steel to resist cutting (except from diamond cutting discs of course).

Thinking of getting these 2 locks since they can be found online much cheaper than Abus or Kryptonite locks

Brute STD and Pitbull DT

Would they be okay for this 29er bike, i'm worried about them not fiting the bike

Just 1 week?? Use WD40 to free up corrosion and rust, then you need some graphite lock lubricant to keep it slick. That should give some protection against the weather too. I've not tried it, I just read that's what you are supposed to do ¬.¬

Yeah, I was surprised how quick it started to seize up, I do live near the coast, so salt in the air will be a factor. I'd assumed the manufacturer would have lubricated it well, but I guess not.

A regular squirt with WD40 has kept the lock working smoothly since then, although it may not be the best choice since according to Captain Cropper, the lock body contains some plastic parts. I've been meaning to try a silicone lubricant - I need to get some anyway as it is recommend for the locks I fitted to my UPVC doors after reading about burglars using snapping and bumping to easily defeat regular euro locks.

I haven't tried graphite powder, I know it is often recommend for locks as dirt doesn't adhere to it, but I don't think that it will provide any corrosion resistance, I gather it can even cause galvanic corrosion when used on some metals.

Originally Posted by GA2G
I don't recommend the Squire Urban Paramount and here is why:
http://road.cc/content/review/8165-s...paramount-lock

heh, I wonder if it could be repaired with gaffer tape ._.

Basically, yes ...

In the pic, see the small round hole just above the lower hole that the shackle goes into? A pin fits into that to hold the lock cylinder in place when the whole shebang is unlocked - when it's locked, it holds itself together.

Apart from the messed-up plastic, that's basically what my Paramounts looked like when I took them apart to repin them so they'd all work from the same key. I'd happily fix that lock with gaffer tape and use it tomorrow.

WD40 cleans and drys a surface. A lock** must be lubricated after that**, or it will seize up tighter than a nun's whatsits.

WD40 leaves an oily residue after the solvent evaporates. It contains 21% mineral oil dissolved in naphtha, so will provide some lubrication, although it needs to be regularly reapplied, and dirt sticks to it of course. EDIT: see COSHH sheet here for main ingredients http://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-with-spray-applicator-5ltr/32927?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area2&_requestid=104645

It is actually pretty poor at releasing rusted parts compared to a proper penetrating oil though.

I purchased some graphite lock lubricant from Maplins. It's in a little bottle that has a nozzle you insert into the lock and push in; the pushing action releases the lubricant by spraying into the lock. If you do get any I advise that you do this well away from anything you want clean. I rather stupidly did it with the key slot of the lock facing down and ended up with the graphite lubricant running down the bike and onto my stuff. It doesn't half stain.

WD40 cleans and drys a surface. A lock** must be lubricated after that**, or it will seize up tighter than a nun's whatsits.

That´s the case!

Best for lubricating locks is Abus PS 88, cheaper and as good is Brunox turbo spray.

And what about the best rope lock with combination not keys so less to remember?

There is no best rope lock. All rope locks can be cut more or less with garden shears. No security from them at all. Sorry.

I'm taking you mean cable lock, not even the armoured cable locks, so therefore since even the armoured cable locks cannot be left for long, then regular cable locks should be avoided at all costs. If you wish to avoid weight and size, then invest in locking skewers, and at least a lock from the list in the Secondary Locks thread. That would be the bare minimum that I could suggest.

The locking skewer options are in the list on the first page of this thread. Hope that was some help at least.

I've been meaning to try a silicone lubricant - I need to get some anyway as it is recommend for the locks I fitted to my UPVC doors after reading about burglars using snapping and bumping to easily defeat regular euro locks.

I thought having really slick, lubricated locks would make it easier to pick/bump...

I assume that lock lube coats the lock parts in a thin layer of graphite, which would protect them, but mainly it's for lubrication.

Even GT85 should be better than WD40. GT85 contains PTFE. The lowest friction substance known to man.

I purchased some graphite lock lubricant from Maplins. It's in a little bottle that has a nozzle you insert into the lock and push in

How small is it? Really small like only 15ml?

I thought having really slick, lubricated locks would make it easier to pick/bump...

I assume that lock lube coats the lock parts in a thin layer of graphite, which would protect them, but mainly it's for lubrication.

Even GT85 should be better than WD40. GT85 contains PTFE. The lowest friction substance known to man.

Don't think lubrication helps with picking, but when I made a bump key to try it myself, I did find applying WD40 intermediately before bumping a lock made it much more likely to work on the first attempt. The door locks I have have a sleeve around one of the pins which is supposed to bounce up blocking the shear line if bumped. And disc locks such as the Kryptonite aren't vulnerable to bumping of course.

There is no best rope lock. All rope locks can be cut more or less with garden shears. No security from them at all. Sorry.

I'm taking you mean cable lock, not even the armoured cable locks, so therefore since even the armoured cable locks cannot be left for long, then regular cable locks should be avoided at all costs. If you wish to avoid weight and size, then invest in locking skewers, and at least a lock from the list in the Secondary Locks thread. That would be the bare minimum that I could suggest.

The locking skewer options are in the list on the first page of this thread. Hope that was some help at least.

Some thieves don't even use cable cutters to defeat cable locks, some years ago I saw several cycle racks in town that appeared to had been raided. There were bits of twisted up cable locks hanging from the bars and littering the ground, and several bikes with bent frames. The thief/thieves had obviously twisted up the locks using the bike frames for leverage until the lock or the bike broke. The racks were in clear view on a moderately busy high street too.

GA2G, just wanted to say, although sometimes I smile at your pedanticalness, I recently lent my old lock out to someone who lost it, and when it came to looking for a replacement this thread was the first and only place I came for research.

Got an Onguard Brute LS and 4' cable for £29 on eBay. It cost less than the old lock and looks certain to do a better job.

Thanks a lot for keeping this thread going and up to date.

Spaceinvader, do you know what size that Allen key is? I don't recall receiving one with mine. The closest I've found is 3mm but it just spins in the bolt head as does the imperial equivalent.

Bit late replying, but I moved a Kryptonite New York for my dad a few days ago, and 3mm was a good fit for the bracket and the aluminium(?) shackle fitting.

Thinking about getting an Abus Granit X-Plus 54 & Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit combo. Will that give enough reach options? or would i be better sticking with my Oxford chain and just getting the krypto? opinions welcome =) Oxford Products OF159 1.5m Heavy Duty Chain Lock with Disc Lock: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

You haven't defined reach.......

A reach useful for connecting to a verity of bike stands and urban locking locations (aka fences)

The Granit X 54 comes in two lengths. Even the shorter is fine for most people, but if you have concerns, get the longer one. Your 2 choices are excellent though.

Dunno if it's just the one I got, but the longer one rattles a lot more than the shorter one when attached to the bike using the Abus mount.

in the market for a new lock after by last combo (Abus Granit 1000 Steel O Flex and Krypto Evolution Mini) was easily dispatched with by thieves.

For main lock in my budget I'm tossing up between Abus Granit-54 X-Plus 23cm or a New York 3000. I like the weight of the Abus and the fact it has a dual locking design, but is the 3000 going to be stronger?

The Fahgettaboudit M18 is a bit heavy for my liking, but i might be able to stretch to it maybe. Mini i think will be too small for my locking pattern

Can you expand at all on the previous theft? Location/time they took/tools used etc? It's always useful to know just how vulnerable the more vulnerable locks are, given krypto evo is a pretty commonly used one....