Modern Campagnolo Centur cranks

Can anyone tell me the hex wrench hole size in modern campagnolo cranks. They're veloce.

Stuck my 10mm in and it fell straight through.

It looks 14, but not sure?

Also what tool do I need to get the BB off? Not used to this threaded malarky.

Looks fucking stupid.
I'll call balfes. http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/10s_POWER_TORQUE_SYSTEM_CRANKSET_UK_08_12.pdf

was 10 on the Ultra torque (-2012?), newer (power torque) one is 14mm I believe

you need a special gear puller for removal

http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/04/bikes-and-tech/how-to-remove-campagnolo-power-torque-cranks_280400

Campagnolo have got to be difficult and different on every part.
Such pointlessness design.

Thanks. I'll take it to Streatham Balfes in the morning, they've been sweet before.

viva square taper-Ultra torques can be a pain in the ass but their one saving grace is that they are super easy to install and de-install/service once the cups are in place.

Power torque just seems like the same except you need more tools and its not as straightforward.

Will be quite happy to go back to square taper once my current cranks are dead.

Whats a pain in the ass about UTs? I love em, never had any issues at all and i had more than a few.

Me Julie has UT, I've got the big allen key in my tool box to use with it.

Seems a decent enough system.

The PT stuff looks plain stupid, however.

Whats a pain in the ass about UTs? I love em, never had any issues at all and i had more than a few.

found it a bitch on a couple of steel frames-carbon was fine. Think it's just BB shell width variance that allows the axle to shift creating a clicking when you pedal under load (yes I got the BB shell faced before install etc.) I read a lot of other folk had the same problem.

Also loads of shit gets past the bearing seals and gunks up-I've not gotten more than a season out of one set of bearings (which being Campag are a non-standard size and cost £££, plus require a bearing puller to get off the crank spindle), not so with square taper sealed units. Just one of these things with a new system-hirsch joint is good in theory but I don't think it's radically better than the shimano/sram system, just Campag trying to be different.

Admission up front of bias - I run Campagnolo's main UK Service Centre.

"found it a bitch on a couple of steel frames-carbon was fine. Think it's just BB shell width variance that allows the axle to shift creating a clicking when you pedal under load (yes I got the BB shell faced before install etc.) I read a lot of other folk had the same problem."

It's not normally a problem unless the BB shell width is a lot under tolerance - if the face-to-face width is less than the design minimum of 67.2 mm, then yes, the wavy washer can't take up the end float.

I have several UT bikes that are ridden year-round and have had worse bearing life than with square taper but that is also true of other "outboard" and "oversize" (BB30 etc) systems that I have tried and that my customers have fitted. It's a consequence of taking something initially developed for competition and using it in ways that it wasn't really originally destined for. That's what a large sector of the market demands ... I am not saying that it makes any sense, mind ...

Skinny - the point of the PT design was to keep the pedal width ("Q factor") the same as with the square taper BB designs but at a more aggressive price-point than UT.

UT did this by building end-float adjustment into the cup, rather than using the cumbersome (and rather poor, in engineering terms) solution that Shimano have adopted. This was the point of the Hurth joint - not simply difference for the sake of it. PT is a variation on the same. Unfortunately, to maintain ankle clearance it wasn't possible to build in a self-extractor.

Pulling PT has also attracted a lot of comment, but in fact it's easy IF you use the right puller (Facom U.301) and if you remember to remove the washer under the head of the bolt ... we have had a lot of cranks back that mechanics have said were "impossible to pull" but in general have found the remains of the washer squished in there. The remainder have been fitted dry when the technical docs do say that the crank should be greased.

Yeah it's not difficult to take off, not disagreeing.
You just need all the tools. And they're not cheap together to buy.

And it's still not easy like Cannondale SISL or FSA Gossamer. Gossamers only have 3 m6 nuts and then it falls apart.