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• #1402
this looks quite fat
Now that's looks just the ticket, clean lines which is what I love
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• #1403
I want the bike to be nimble, fast and avoid pedal strike. I am one of those guys who are always looking for improvement - but sometimes there isn`t any room for it and you should be happy with what you got. I like the bike and I like the idea of sticking to what I´ve bought first, just because of the story I got with that frame.
But yeah, pedal strike and a nimble feel :)
If pedal strike is an issue I'd start with changing pedals. If you're riding with bmx sized pedals it's not surprising you hit the ground every now and again.
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• #1404
Actually the pedals he mentioned is quite thin;
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• #1405
But wide?
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• #1406
Ah that what you meant, my apologise.
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• #1407
I guess both matters. Thinking about it, being thin probably matters more.
Where's mdcc_tester when you need him?
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• #1408
What crank length are you using as that will also factor into pedal strike.
Saying that, I have been riding Steamrollers fixed for 10 years and pedal strike has never been an issue but I then was an early adopter of the "don't lean" best practice.
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• #1409
I am using 165mm cranks. Re pedals, I think it`s most likely due to them being wide but otherwise me shoe covers the whole platform anyway. I want neither pedal nor shoe strike :)
Still thinking about how much of a difference a Dart or Swift would feel handling-wise.
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• #1410
Your shoes sit higher than the pedals thought, so if your shoes is the same width as your current pedals, it less likely to strike the tarmac.
The handling will be similar giving the track geometry.
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• #1411
For handling I prefer the lower BB of the Steamroller which lowers center of gravity. High BB track bikes can feel more precarious on bumpy roads (which is just about all of the roads)
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• #1412
Maybe I could reduce pedal strikes with changing cranks also. My SRAM S300 arms are quite a few mm`s away from the chainstays. My fromer Miche Primato crank arms were closer.
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• #1413
Stick with the cranks, pedal strike can be remedy by getting bigger tyres.
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• #1414
It all depends how much pedal is striking, a tyre change from 23 to 28 may not totally cure it and putting 40c tyres on just to cure pedal strike is not the best solution in the world.
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• #1415
I have a 53cm 'Roller with 165mm cranks and have had no pedal strike issues. I use the titchy double-side SPD pedals.
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• #1416
^ditto
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• #1417
^^tritto
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• #1418
Got this a few weeks ago and still in the condition I bought it, bar saddle and bottle cage.
I need:
New tyres (GSkins probably)
New stem (110mm instead of 130mm)
New seatpost (I'm anal about stem and seatpost matchymatchy)
Swappage of brake levers. (Ergo levers are on the wrong way round)
New headset (This one has auto-pilot straight on. Seriously notched.)Long term I may powdercoat it dark grey/sparkle. And I want different cranks. I love it though. To bits.
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• #1419
New tyres (GSkins probably)
My condolences.
New headset (This one has auto-pilot straight on. Seriously notched.)
That sound like you got it a little too tight.
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• #1420
It's not too tight.
And what's wrong with gatorskins?
I genuinely have only used them for a few hous and didn't see a problem with them. -
• #1421
Got this a few weeks ago and still in the condition I bought it, bar saddle and bottle cage.
Looks good!
*waits for Indra to suggest riding it off-road...
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• #1422
And what's wrong with gatorskins?
Not enough to actually worry about.
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• #1423
Thought so.
I prefer duranos, might get them, They don't have a weird orange tinge either...
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• #1424
But those tyres look like so much fun, makes me want a steamroller/nature boy...
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• #1425
Nice by the way, George!
Does look by nice , but no bosses look, err boss!
Maybe I will go with the Cross check and if I can cope with the descents on fix look for a second hand roller :-)