Bob Jackson Audax/LEL build

The weight of the rims isn't noticable unless you're a pro, wider rims I'm sure you know retain it shape better (U shape rather than bulb), and reduced risk of pinch puncture too.

My comment is that for people who are heavier than usual, a 25c would suit them better as a 23c would suit me, or bigger.

It's not about the safety limit of the rims/tyres but more the fact you have to pump it up even more to compensate to stop it from feeling spongy, the 25c would mean you can comfortably have it a little lower says 90-100psi on the front, similar to a normal individual with 23c with almost identical pressure.

Thinking hard on your rim suggestions Ed.
Reduced flats are ultimately good, as as improved surface grip and braking capacity.

If I'm honest I can't ever see myself running a 28mm or bigger tyre for a road adventure, but unlike the Mavics, a number of makers of 22m wide rims (typ) seem to indicate that they can run 25mm tyres, which I could live with, and some guys seem to even run 23mms.

In the mean time...
It's cold outside and there's nothin else to do..... so here's more terrible photos.

Crankset - not quite new secondhand ent cranks (180mm)

This will be going on the sunday best, which will in turn be donating a short cage 10 spd centaur derailleur pair. It's not going on the bike, but it is sexy. And people who read the internet like sexy pictures.

Which brings me to a dilemma item.
I usually ride a 53/39 with 12-23 or 12-25. These rings are a 52/42, which seems like an odd combination if I'm honest. But I own them, and they're in pretty useable nick, and chainrings are expensive. So....

I'm thinking that I'll use these rings. The Miche 12-29 cassette would give me a bottom gear ratio of 39.9, which is slightly lower than the smallest gear I usually use, and would tie-in with chain wrap of 25, which although not broad is well within the 27 limit quoted for the derailleur by campy.

The only question that remains is whether the dropout / cage will clear the big ring. Google tells me it will, even though campy quote 29 as a limit.

I'm reasonable confident that this is solid, reliable & gives me at little more flexibility at the ouchy end of the range..

If this all goes well, I could then entertain the idea of putting a 39 ring on the front, if I find on longer (upcoming 400/600) rides that I need somewhere to go when the dark places happen. I've come across lots of people saying they run 12-29 with a 53/39, so a 52/42 would have to be better (if not quite perfect perhaps).

Not sure that this would provide quite the degree of reliability that I need, but it does provide some flexibility.

Thinking hard on your rim suggestions Ed.
Reduced flats are ultimately good, as as improved surface grip and braking capacity.

If I'm honest I can't ever see myself running a 28mm or bigger tyre for a road adventure, but unlike the Mavics, a number of makers of 22m wide rims (typ) seem to indicate that they can run 25mm tyres, which I could live with, and some guys seem to even run 23mms.

I have a 25mm wide rims and ran 25c tyres on it, on the g/f bike she have 23c on her (Mavic A319) as she's pretty small and light that a 23c to her felt like a 25c.

52/42 seemed an odd combination IMHO, the 42t might feel a bit limiting once you get to the north of England.

Ok, claims are progressing and the season for cycling seems to be approaching.
Long rides are ahead and I need to get the ball rolling on this build.

I have considered edscoble's advice, and after much internettering, have decided on the following wheel build / combination:

Front:
32H Velocity A23 laced to Exposure rim brake hub dynamo
Rear:
36H Velocity A23 laced to Hope pro S3, campy hub.

spokes I'm not yet decided on.

I have a question though regarding the A23 rims if anyone has first hand experience:
Is it worth trying to track down the asymmetrically drilled rim for the rear to improve the balance of the spoke tensions?

Normally I would says no, but given your approx weight, I can't says and recommended you to speak to a reputable wheelbuilder to find out whether it's worth going for or not.

Also let the wheelbuilder choose the spokes to fit your need.

I love my A23 as it's a great and strong rims (both 32 holes, fixed tourer) but I'm only 75kg, the other person whom I know who managed to wreck the A23 is jammy (andy from Tokyo Fixed) on his Surly Cross-check because he's also quite heavy (and tall).

He since then went for a DT Swiss touring rims that's just as wide, if you're looking for a strong alternative; Mavic A319.

weight weenie question:
the guys at spa have a very attractive deal on built up wheels using the exal lx17

from what I have read very few people have had any problems with these. However, theyre around 100gm heavier when compared to similar rims (I'm thinking velocity synergy)

any thoughts on whether 100gm is likely to make any perceptible difference to the riding resistance, given that it's rotating mass?

Not much difference IMHO, but it didn't stop me from going for a lighter rims on mine.

Tyres make a massive difference rather in speed and comfort (e.g. Marathon Plus 28c weight 740g whether says a Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons is 260g for the same size, or even a race tyres like the Ultremo ZX that came out at a lowely 235g).

Yeah but you could ride a Mara Plus over a land mine and not notice whereas the Conti would explode in a shower of molten rubber before it left the building.

Have just seen this thread Zanda! Subscribed for future.

Dynamo lights are 100% the way to go, modern hubs add absolutely negligible drag when on

Here's a CTC article on them I've scanned in for some info.

I have an edelux light which works brilliantly, but the new Busch&Muller Luxos U sounds like a completely new generation of dyno light in terms of lighting up the road, and you can even charge usb devices via it. So check that out fo sho.

And probably not a problem for you, but it is for me and my noodly legs.

But I like to have real low gearing for the hills, triple crank (52/39/28) and 11-28 rear sort of thing.

And that campag double crankset you have has pretty high gearing. Is that potentially an issue when tired and facing a big climb?

Different strokes for different people, but just chucking a suggestion out.

zanda's building another bike... how did he get away with that one!?

SHHHHHH!

I'm cascading a bike.

few bits and pieces on the way via postman pat. This thing is about to go on the workstand in the living room, ready for Giro highlights and the NBA tonight.

probably get over excited and butcher the one working geared bike I have before the BCM only to find I can't get this together in time.
Maybe I'll just resort to weighing things instead.