First-Time build problem: drops and threads and axles.

So, I was trying to do my first build, and need some advice!

The frame is (or purports to be) an old Raleigh *superbe, *24".
I think it is one of these: http://www.flickr.com/photos/43612520@N05/5830289569/in/photostream/

and, in fact, I'd planned to do a pretty similar build.

I ordered wheels from these people, http://www.cyclesofyesteryear.com/cycleshop/sparepart.htm, a pair of 28" wheels.

These arrived recently. And now I have several problems:

1) the front fork is too narrow. I understand that these can be spread, but this is difficult. Could someone show me a picture of a raleigh-style axle attached to the frame, so I know quite how this fits together. I need to know how much it is to be spread by.

2) more annoyingly, the dropouts on the rear of the frame are too small to accommodate the diameter of the axle. They are horizontal, like in the picture above, and I assumed that raleigh would have had a standard diameter over time, and also that a place specialising in raleigh restoration would have used this. So, have I made an error? Is the modern hub based around a now-larger standard diameter? Or should I be able to get a smaller diameter hub, and if so, is there a standard size? Or should I just file away until the thread fits. It can only be about 1mm at most difference.

Any help, in particular with Raleigh/roadster bicycles, and from anyone who was bought one of those wheels made up from that shop, would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

This might help with (1):

http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Also this:

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8725/100-mm-front-hub-94-mm-fork-dropouts-options

As for (2), you don't quote either the size of the slot in your dropouts or the diameter of the axle in your wheel, so it's difficult to answer your question exactly. What can be said, however, is that it is not unknown to file a 'flat' in the thread on opposite sides of the axle to allow it to fit in the dropout. You could, instead, open up the slot in the dropout with a file but the former is more useful if you don't want to modify your frame. If you do decide to file the frame dropouts, remember to file the lower face, not the upper one. This will ensure the left and right dropouts remain at the same height in relation to each other and the wheel will be straight in the frame.

1) As far as I know front forks have always been 100m OLD, but I could be wrong. How far out is it? If its only 2 - 4mm just spread it.

2) As for the rear, that frame looks pretty old so the rear hub will be about 120mm, not 126mm as of newer bikes and 130mm as modern bikes. If the wheels are 130mm or even 126mm they will not fit and you will either need to get new wheels or cold set the frame.
As Vikingfixed said, if you could be a bit more specific that would be helpful! i.e. are they geared or single/fixed wheels?

1) As far as I know front forks have always been 100m OLD, but I could be wrong. How far out is it? If its only 2 - 4mm just spread it.

2) As for the rear, that frame looks pretty old so the rear hub will be about 120mm, not 126mm as of newer bikes and 130mm as modern bikes. If the wheels are 130mm or even 126mm they will not fit and you will either need to get new wheels or cold set the frame.
As Vikingfixed said, if you could be a bit more specific that would be helpful! i.e. are they geared or single/fixed wheels?

Fronts have been narrower in the past, but might be worth looking to see if there's any spacers either side of the axle that could reduce the wheel axle. Not so much possible if its quick release though.

With its likely age it might also be 110mm at the rear to accommodate a sturmey archer hub. But this brings you to cold setting or getting a correct hub. Easy answer is to measure the space in between.

'Tis true, early forks were 96 and even 91mm....

Welcome to the wonderfully non-standard world of vintage bikes

Rear hub problem is easy: dropouts are designed for a Sturmey Archer axle, which has flats. Your single speed freewheel hub does not, so you'll need to file the axle or dropouts. A Raleigh front hub of the period is narrower than a modern one and usually doesn't have cone locknuts - the axle nut acts as the locknut with the fork end acting as the spacer. Remove spacers and locknuts as necessary, just remember to remove the same amount from each side.

A small but general point: measuring components made to imperial sizes in metric makes for awkward numbers. I think it's easier to stick to the originals, for example: standard British rear fork end spacing (for single gears or Sturmey) 4.25", chainline 1.5" (sorry about the decimals, the keyboard doesn't do fractions properly!), and I think you will find that the Raleigh's seat pin is 25.4 mm. or, as I would say, 1".

Thank you very much for your replies - at least I now understand the problem!

The front forks need to be spread by 1cm, or I need to find a narrow hub, c 90cm. - probably a vintage one.

The rear hub - either file down the axle - axle, which isn't a brand I know much about - and that's probably the work of a few minutes. Alternatively, is it possible to fit a sturmey archer axle into this hub (it says Quando KT-Tech on it) ? I doubt that 2 different makes would be compatible, but someone might know better.