Road bike recommendations

http://www.elizabethandesserts.com/wp-content/themes/hansum/timthumb.php?src=http://www.elizabethandesserts.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Screen-shot-2010-10-21-at-5.44.22-PM.png&w=670

Looks dry.
Rock cake.

well rocky road cake.

^ Reaching 'Summer weight' just isn't going to happen for me this year :-(

^ Reaching 'Summer weight' just isn't going to happen for me this year :-(

How far will I need to run tonight to burn off a tub of this.

How far will I need to run tonight to burn off a tub of this.

1150kcal.

hmmmmm

At my weight and pace thats around 13km.

Totally worth it.

^ Don't eat it first though ;-)

^ Don't eat it first though ;-)

Logic fail.

If I eat it first I'll be heavier, and therefore burn more calories. In fact maybe I'll have 2, and make it a proper workout.

^ Be sure to take some with you too!

^ Be sure to take some with you too!

I'll squish a tub or two into my Camelbak.

You would want the sta with reach aswell to know what seatpost to buy :)

For those who know what size you like / want for your bikes "reach" does not really ad alot. Just easier if you are less certain and want to compare bikes with limited knowledge of bike geometry or maybe thats just because im use to tt and sta.

Lets say you hate setback posts. Then you would want the reach + sta anyways or you may end up needing one.

Lets say you hate setback posts. Then you would want the reach + sta anyways or you may end up needing one.

Setback posts are needed with most saddles. If you don't use a setback seatpost you have either extremely short legs with disproportionally short femurs, you are riding a full suspension MTB or positioning for a 1990s time-trial. The question should not be "setback" or not but how much. With some saddles and steep seat-tubes standard posts can be insufficient--- that is where seatposts such as a Look Ergopost enter the picture.

For those who know what size you like / want for your bikes

And how does one get to know that? Want that? What one has? What some fitting guru has declared to be right? Experiments in a wind tunnel?

Its all not that clear cut or self-evident!

And how does one get to know that? Want that? What one has? What some fitting guru has declared to be right? Experiments in a wind tunnel?

Its all not that clear cut or self-evident!

I definitely agree. It can be a number of things, trial and error i guess is what it is for most. A fitter prolly gets your there faster tho.

But if you dont know what you want then reach isent magically going to help anyone either..

Setback posts are needed with most saddles. If you don't use a setback seatpost you have either extremely short legs with disproportionally short femurs, you are riding a full suspension MTB or positioning for a 1990s time-trial. The question should not be "setback" or not but how much. With some saddles and steep seat-tubes standard posts can be insufficient--- that is where seatposts such as a Look Ergopost enter the picture.

Or you have a really slack sta..

But sure. Same scenario tho. You are still going to need to know that sta to know how much setback you want, no?

I went through this drawing but can some one tell me if this will fit me?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12459491/falcon-1.jpg

I used to ride CAAD 10 in 52 size like this:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12459491/falcon-2.gif
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12459491/falcon-3.jpg

^ the use will be track only

Find a similar'ish bike and try it out - I'm sure it's fine dependent on length of stem, reach on handlebar, alignment of the stars.

And big-ups to UBI for taking the time to teach me about the concepts of real&imaginary reach on last page & to Smallfurry for the Cakebonanza :]

Now I want cake.

^ the use will be track only

Depends upon your position. Road and track sizes are different. Up until the 1980s and STI/Ergopower, one shifted with drop-tube levers, seatposts where 20cm or shorter, bars were deep and one spent a lot of time in the drops. Track frames where typically smaller than road to position the bars lower and to account for the higher bottom bracket. These days road position is more aerodynamic, one spends a lot of time on the hoods. Contemporary road handlebars tend to be quite shallow. With a track frame one probably also does not want to have many, if any, spacers and shorter stems. Depending upon the discipline a track frame might need to have a longer headtube than a road frame. One also tends to a have bit less saddle setback. This, in turn, calls for frame with a slightly longer (1cm or so) reach, resp, top-tube length or steeper seat-tube. This results in track frames that tend to be a bit larger than road!

Hi all,

Ok so I have around £750 to spend on a new road bike to replace my Fuji Feather 2012. I need something I can commute to work with and to participate in some rides around London and its surrounding counties. Therefore I have opted for a road bike over another fixed gear.

I currently have my eye on the Ribble Winter Trainer and the Felt F95. I’ve read that the Ribble is excellent value for money in terms of the parts used, plus it is a fantastic looking bike. In fact I prefer the aesthetics of the Ribble over the Felt.

Does anyone have any experience with either of these bikes?

I realise 750 pounds isn’t going to get me much but are there any other bikes in this price range I should consider looking at?

Thanks!

CAAD8 with Sora without a doubt IMO.

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cannondale/caad8-7-sora-2013-compact-road-bike-ec042913

Thanks for the response JB, is there much difference between the Shimano SORA groupset and the Campagnolo Veloce groupset?

My housemate just got that exact CAAD8 while nice theres some rather cheap bits on it, my housemates bent the chainring already seemingly, hopefully theyll replace for free though