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@Rik_Van_Looy
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions - most helpful, and very much in the spirit of "light touch".
The story of the beautiful lugged stem is as follows...
1) Chrome bubbling up & areas of rust showing through...
2) Coke & alu-foil therapy
Lots of the chrome plate lifted, revealing bubbled-up rusty metal.
a drop of neat phosphoric acid helped to deal with the really rusty bits
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72712370/before
3) Elbow grease/buffing wheel/Autosol/Simoniz Auto Wax followed by a relatively crap photo......