Unknown Path/Track Frame

i found that riding on the flat section of the drops, even for a short time, caused my wrists to ache.
i would usually ride on the brake hoods but as there was only one this wasn't then possible.
part of the problem, i think, is that the flat section on the bars is curved away slightly and so put an unusual strain on my wrists.
I do have another set of drops and im gonna try find the money to get a stem like this
then im gonna try do something worthy of the bar wrap thread http://www.lfgss.com/thread85083.html

Bottom bracket arrived!
New cranks installed...
http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=2189&pictureid=13277

finished! for now anyway, its probably gonna be like this till i can save up a wad of cash to restore it to a more original state, although that may take awhile... at least i can ride now.

Nice. Assume that's Brighton? Look forward to seeing this around.

yea it is, did the seagull give it away? im up and down lewes rd most days so keep an eye out :)

No, it was the street and the estate agent boards! I'll shout if I see you.

Nice but it'd look a lot nicer with some fatter tires.

or mudguards.

I think he mentioned 27" wheels which would sort out the gaps.

Nice but it'd look a lot nicer with some fatter tires.

or mudguards.

I think he mentioned 27" wheels which would sort out the gaps.

i do plan to build up some 27" wheels, i've already got some 50s british arilite hubs i just need the rims and spokes.
if anyones got a spare set of rims let me know, i need a 36h and a 32h

mudguards are also a possibility but given that the weathers so nice i was thinking they might not be bought till winter comes round again...

finally built those 27" wheel ive been planning on for so long.
put some TA cranks on and also sorted out the bars aswell.

sorry for the low quality pic

Looks lovely Donker.

What rims did you get? Matching pair?

One tiny detail... give the chain ring a slight rotate until the crank arm intersects one of the cut outs...if you can be arsed!

How did you get the dummy brake lever to stay up? and not flap about.

Looks good BTW

^^ intersects evenly*

Looks lovely Donker.

What rims did you get? Matching pair?

One tiny detail... give the chain ring a slight rotate until the crank arm intersects one of the cut outs...if you can be arsed!

not matching which is a shame, i got a free weinmann off a friend but a matching one would have set me back around £25 and i've already spent way more than i should have doing this up so i just bought a cheap arayra off ebay for a £5 including postage.
ha, hadnt noticed that, something to do tomorrow evening then

How did you get the dummy brake lever to stay up? and not flap about.

Looks good BTW

cheers.
for the lever i just stuck a cable tie through it... doesn't look very good up close, im trying to work out a more elegant solution but cant think of anything that doesn't involve glue...

The rims look good regardless of them being a matching pair!

but cant think of anything that doesn't involve glue...

Anyway of attaching a small piece to the back of the lever and the body of the lever? Like a small block or wedge? Or now looking at the lever, adding a piece inside, or even a small stiff spring?

The bigger wheels look great!

You can use a bit of cable and work out a bodge at the top. Bit of a faff.

For your info this is probably the 2nd earliest MN Track frame. The seat cluster is probably original despite the braze material. The lugs are Nervex pro he used on 'best' frames and this frame will have been made to measure and well made. A top quality job. I have my first road frame which is a '58.MN 3rd oldest recorded at the time. Alvin Smith would like some pics and invites you to MN ride on May 11 next year in Staffordshire. If you decide to refinish frame we are happy to show you some early examples and advise on decals. No pressure!!!

I should have said 2nd earliest recorded!

The bigger wheels look great!

You can use a bit of cable and work out a bodge at the top. Bit of a faff.

gave it a go, manged to find a brake cable end thingy and clamp it on with a pair of pliers. Not sure how much abuse it'll take but if it holds then its deff a better solution than cable ties.
i suppose if i have to i could always run a second brake....
horror

also sorted out the cranks, nothing like a rainy afternoon

For your info this is probably the 2nd earliest MN Track frame. The seat cluster is probably original despite the braze material. The lugs are Nervex pro he used on 'best' frames and this frame will have been made to measure and well made. A top quality job. I have my first road frame which is a '58.MN 3rd oldest recorded at the time. Alvin Smith would like some pics and invites you to MN ride on May 11 next year in Staffordshire. If you decide to refinish frame we are happy to show you some early examples and advise on decals. No pressure!!!

wow thanks for the info, its a great piece of history thats for sure.
I would ideally like to re-finish, possibly in chrome as im pretty sure it had 3/4 chromed forks and stays, maybe turquoise for the main colour?
i think ive got alvin's email somewhere... if you like i can pm you mine to pass on to alvin and he can let me know if there anything specific he'd like a picture of.
May 11th sounds good, it'd be great to see some other MNs

It will be grand to see the old girl next year! The fork pitting may be against you for rechroming. You need an expert to to look at and advise before you go ahead and have them done - there will need to be enough metal to polish out the pits and give the perfect base chrome needs, It is expensive process, You can send me a pm as this post gives me that privilege and I will send contacts and piccies too

Extremely handsome bike. In fact it looks very similar to a 1950 Claud Butler I had a few years ago (bare metal frame, gumwall tyres, spearpoint stem). Mine was fillet-brazed.

I would like another 40s/50s British bike.

Thanks for the info. I think your probably right, my frame has the same lines a bit down the seatstays as yours does.

what did the repair to your dawes entail? it'd be interesting to know why it needed repairing.

Mystery solved, the lines across the top of the seat tube are in fact were end caps were put on the rear stays in order to make it possible to do a wrap around the seat tube lug.

Bit late in the resolution but I just meet an old frame builder Eric Deeks who explained the hows and whys of my Major. Thought it might be of interest to anyone else with an old track frame with similar marks on the rear stays.