Dave Lloyd with a bit of work needed

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/morebikesforsale/SAM_3961_zps89e0beb2.jpg

Got this for under 50 quid including P&P which I thought was quite reasonable. It has a stuck Campag seatpost which probably kept the price down. Will try GT85, ice in seat tube, plusgas in that order to try to get the seatpost out which if works is worth about 1/2 what I paid. If all fails then coke or the last resort caustic soda.

Was pretty excited about it until it turned up like this:

http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=2541&pictureid=15332

Bummer, no box, no bracing for the fork or rear dropouts and hence a trip to Union Cycle Works tomorrow to check if the alignments are all good will be the first thing to do.

Some nice details of the frame includes engraved DLloyd on the top of the seat stays and rear brake bridge and DL on the fork crown. No dents, but one of the bottle bosses was drilled out so need a new one brazed on.

The paint is pretty bad as I can peel off the blue paint to reveal a second layer of metalic silver which is suprisingly in quite good condition. Might just peel everything and see if I can get it all down to metallic silver. There are also some rust patches which I plan to treat with Hammerite Kurust and then give it a lick of paint.

There are no stickers to show what tubing it is but there is a 'Built by Dave Lloyd' sticker at the bottom of the down tube which led me to send an email to Dave Lloyd with the serial number hoping he can tell me which year and what tubing.

Already have a partial Sachs New Success group set and a DA lined up for this build. It's going to be a functional build, so not sticking to period correct bits. Will also start hunting for decals when I have the time, only found thishttp://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=9590763http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=6550913http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=8887712http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=8887712http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=7736139http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&item=350442365001&mpt=3925599 which is in the correct type font but without the black lining which is currently on the bike and looks pretty much like this one here: http://www.lfgss.com/thread47971.html

A few more photos from the seller's album:

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/morebikesforsale/SAM_3962_zps1fa71300.jpg

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/morebikesforsale/SAM_3959_zps0ef26ae7.jpg

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/morebikesforsale/SAM_3958_zps2f7bc599.jpg

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/morebikesforsale/SAM_3957_zpsef0ba540.jpg

Think I'd have wanted £50 just to take the thing away!

Good luck, I reckon you'll need it!

Lulz... Indeed but who doesn't like a challenge? The GT85 haven't removed the seatpost yet, will give it a couple more days while I await for the plusgas to arrive. Will most probably pop by to see Ryan @ Oak Cycles at the end of the month to get the bottle boss fixed.

**Bad news: **

After a week of GT85 the seatpost is still stuck, flipped the bike around and loaded the seat tube with GT85, will give it a week or so before trying ice in seat tube.

The NDS dropout adjuster screw (yeah, them little buggers!!!) was bent, tried to bend it back and it snapped! It is also stuck... Bummer, soaking in GT85 again.

Good news:

Jo of Union Cycle Works fame checked the frame, a bit misaligned on the NDS and the rear mech hanger was bent, got the mech hanger bent back and will most probably get the frame realigned when I get the braze on for the bottle boss done.

The BB came out after plenty of GT85, threads are pretty caked out with rust+grease, will clean (chase?) it sometime next week. BB is still quite smooth but the NDS cup thread is pretty worn so will see if I can find a replacement for that.

The front brake caliper, a Campagnolo Gran Sport also came out via a 13mm spanner but the recessed bolt is stuck fast, will give it another day or two before drilling it out.

Also noticed _(D?) EVEREST stamped on the BB. Possibly the name of the previous owner?

Here's the 'Handbuilt by Dave Lloyd' sticker, still haven't got a reponse for my email though...

Everest is the lug company.

Good luck with this - nice to see some proper "back from the grave" aspirations.
You can realign the rear triangle yourself if you fancy - save yourself a couple of quid - I've done it before, it's quite easy and fun
For seized seatposts you may want to try something a bit more serious than GT85 - consider plusgas - search on here for more vicious methods - hacksaw blades, heat, caustic soda etc - there's a lot of fun to be had pulling out stubborn seatposts!!!

After soaking, sometimes you can get them moving with a bit of "percussion therapy"

This involves a hammer.
A sharp tap downwards can sometimes get it going....this is hazardous though, as if it was the wrong sized post in the first place,bit will make it worse! Don't forget, once you get a tiny movement, it will come out!

I've only ever had one beat me.....and I've had a few stuck buggers....and that was an old 531 Peugeot that had sat outside for a good few years.....it was never going to move!

Good luck

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chill-zone.htm

Try this stuff, if you spray it on and leave it for a couple of hours, it can ease up the rust and then apply force.

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chill-zone.htm

Try this stuff, if you spray it on and leave it for a couple of hours, it can ease up the rust and then apply force.

^ useful product to know about.

The problem with seaposts and quill stems is that they're usually alu which forms a chemical bond with steal, rather than it just being rust.

At least Aluminium's softer and easier to saw out with a hacksaw blade. - and I'm dying to try fizzing one out with sodium hydroxide....
I've got a 1930's 531 frame with a 531 seatpost completely jammed.
I put the seatpost in a lathe chuck and tried rotating the frame, I've tried injecting the slit in the seattube with neat phosphoric acid, I've mixed phosphoric acid and meths and filled the whole seattube and left to soak for months until it had evaporated, I enjoyed the hammer of gods technique (tech term "jarring") mentioned by stedlocks, I've tried thermal expansion (gas torch on the frame and dripping lube oil on the seat post) eventually I got impatient and held it in a vice to turn the frame - this sheared it off at the seat clamp. Now I'm using a drill and burr to try and grind it out - unfortunately it's inserted by a good 12" - I've made a collet for the burr so it'll get down to 6" and hope that the hammer of the gods will knock the remainder out.
The frame's really not worth it, but I refuse to be beaten

Same here, refuse to be beaten!

Plusgas just arrived so will give that a try next week. Hoping that will get it out. Will try a hybrid method, fill the seat tube with plusgas, and immerse the bit of seatpost sticking out in ice/dry ice and leave it overnight. Hopefully the seatpost will contract enough to let the plusgas seep through. Replace ice the next day and give it another hour or two, clamp seatpost onto vice, pour boiling water on the outside of seat tube and a quick yank.

Sounds good - I read somewhere that if you wrap a handtowel or flannel around the seattube before pouring the boiling water on you'll keep it hotter for longer...

Good luck man!

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Loading the seat tube with plusgas before I go away for the weekend. Just found out that the seatpost bolt is also pretty rusted so I can't remove the saddle and put the post into a bucket of ice. Another bother I dont really need! Already have the hacksaw blade ready if it doesnt come out in 3 weeks time, not too keen on caustic soda.

any update Beagle?

Seatpost is still soaking in plusgas. A friend of mine has offered the use of his workshop and source dry ice for me so hopefully the bugger will come out in one piece! Failing that there's plenty of heating and cutting tools at his place, so will know in 2 weeks.

Gave the bb threads a good clean and noted that there is a patch of the thread which which was not cut properly. Will most likely get it retapped once I get the seatpost out.

If the penetrating oil doesn't work:

Remove bottom bracket bearing, turn frame upside down, plug any holes and fill seat tube with cheap vinegar. Leave for a couple of days, then try it.

If this fails ( although I don't expect that it will) an oxy-acetylene flame will destroy the ali seat post long before it harms the steel frame. This will damage the paint, but perhaps it's due for a respray in any case.

If Paint is no issue...heat...clamp the seat post in vice...if you can get butane on it to freeze it first (remember to be well ventilated...and a blow torch....;D

or hacksaw blade...be patient, have a spliff...and saw away...2 hours later (if you are unlucky...) it's out..

Remember ali expands much more than steel when heated, so just heating the steel tube will only jam the seat pin in more tightly. This principle works well the other way round - for example when removing a ali crank from a steel BB spindle.

However the aluminium will just collapse if given enough heat, and as mentioned above, this happens before the brass in the lugs starts to melt. This is perhaps not a job for some one who has never previously handled oxy-acetylene.

I think this is a Dave Lloys with a LOT of work needed!

If the penetrating oil doesn't work:

Remove bottom bracket bearing, turn frame upside down, plug any holes and fill seat tube with cheap vinegar. Leave for a couple of days, then try it.

Thanks for the vinegar tip, was thinking of coke but I guess vinegar is more acidic and should work better. Frame is currently upside down with the seat tube filled with plusgas.

If Paint is no issue...heat...clamp the seat post in vice...if you can get butane on it to freeze it first (remember to be well ventilated...and a blow torch....;D

or hacksaw blade...be patient, have a spliff...and saw away...2 hours later (if you are unlucky...) it's out..

Rather work with dry ice and hot water than butane and blow torch :) Hack saw already in the tool box for the worse case scenario.

Remember ali expands much more than steel when heated, so just heating the steel tube will only jam the seat pin in more tightly. This principle works well the other way round - for example when removing a ali crank from a steel BB spindle.

However the aluminium will just collapse if given enough heat, and as mentioned above, this happens before the brass in the lugs starts to melt. This is perhaps not a job for some one who has never previously handled oxy-acetylene.

Yep, had this noted down and likewise alu contracts more when chilled hence I am using the dry ice + hot water treatment. Dry ice in a bucket and put the bit of post sticking out into it and some crushed bits of dry ice into the seat tube, leave for an hour or two then clamp seatpost on vice and pour hot water on seat tube and a quick twist. Hopefully this works!

[QUOTE=coventry eagle;3590712]I think this is a Dave Lloys with a LOT of work needed!

Thanks for the vinegar tip, was thinking of coke but I guess vinegar is more acidic and should work better. Frame is currently upside down with the seat tube filled with plusgas.

I think 'Plusgas' is an oil based product, so you may need to get rid of it before applying the vinegar. Wash out with methylated spirit?
You should find the the vinegar will cause a satisfying bubbling effect which will show it is doing something.

One trick no-one has mentioned that worked for me a few years ago. It might help someone. It involves sacrificing the seat post.
1-- saw off top of seat post (I didn't need to because post had broken under me when out on a ride)
2-- find, beg borrow or steal an old style quill handlebar stem with handlebars attached.
3-- Insert handlebar stem down the inside of seat pillar and tighten expander bolt

4-- Twist on the handlebars; they give you a fair bit of leverage and yank seat post out

Has this been resolved yet?

Same here, refuse to be beaten

Beagle, were you beaten? Beagle wink

Not beaten, frame is still in my storeroom awaiting the day I have time to sort it out. Waiting for a crucial bit to arrive!