Home DIY

Just had to do a James Herriot with a black bag on the kitchen waste trap. Removed a black lump of dog knows what the size of 60 Benson. When it whooshed clear I felt a sense of enjoying diy on your own home for the first time not when I had concrete breaker digging the trench for the washing machine waste pipe.

I (we) ended up digging a trench and breaking into the inspection chamber.

Remember my cellar?

So. I need to do something about the walls of my cellar. They're kind of crumbly. There's nothing wrong with the brick (they're not perfect, but they're fine). However, being 147 years old, and pointed with the original lime mortar, I'm fairly sure they need re-pointing. Over the years the mortar has done what it's meant to do (be sacrificed to protect the brick) and is very crumbly in some spots, and pretty much gone in others.

This would all be fine and simple: repoint it with more lime mortar. But quite a lot of it has what can only be described as a weird coating on it:

This coating in places has acquired a strange white 'bloom', which you can scrape off with your fingers.

I think originally the whole thing was coated with this. I don't know what it is, but I suspect the best option is to clean it off (sandblaster?) before it's repointed.

Some of it's quite thick, some quite thin, and you can see that the bricks underneath are red, which I think would look quite good if it was possible to successfully clean them up and neatly repoint. But I'm a bit worried taking this layer off might take the front face of the brick off with it.

Is that a rational fear? Does anyone know what it is?

This is what it looks like where it's less thick and the mortar has eroded more:

Any ideas?

Dust mask, Tyvek suit, wire brush.
Knock yourself out....
It's unlikely you'll get the bricks clean enough without blasting to leave unpainted.
The cellar would never have had pointing as that's for the exteriors of buildings.
Using a trad natural lime wash or a micro-porous paint would probably be a good idea as it will let the wall breath out moisture, which it obviously has been doing quite happily for years hence the salt deposits.

Have fun

I would hire someone -and I'm a builder.

I finally got around to getting a builder to have a look earlier this week with a view to getting the repointing etc. done.

He's (very) local and comes recommended - we know a couple who have used him and are happy with his work and he's repointed a whole house down the road. A few things I'm not sure about though...

One is that he thinks it would be a waste of time/money to use lime mortar - it would create issues due to the confined space of the cellar and cost a lot more. He reckons the original cement was portland, which having done some cursory googling seems feasible as it was invented in England in 1824, and our house is 1860s. He's confident nothing will crack down the road and has pointed out that as he only does local work he's got his reputation to worry about - if it did crack it wouldn't do his reputation locally much good. So, I think I'm ok with that.

He also thinks sealing the bricks with brick seal once the repointing is done would be a good idea. My only question with this is whether the walls will be able to breath with this stuff on? Everyone seems to think this is important. As I understand it he is suggesting using this to keep moisture out of the cellar?

Finally apparently our water pipe (in the top photo) is lead and this is bad (it was outlawed in 1970). This should really have been removed when they converted our building into two flats in '86, but they didn't do it.

He reckons long term it's not good to have all our water going through a lead pipe and I should let him replace it with a plastic one, but google says lead pipes in hard water areas will have a limescale coating that will stop us getting poisoned. I'm inclined to replace it anyway as otherwise he'll have to repoint around it, but any thoughts?

^ Replacing the pipe might also give you the opportunity to run it in a less conspicious place although looks like you also have a gas pipe running along the same wall?

On the proofing/breathability front it depends what you intend to use the space for. For storage etc I would be tempted to seal it up or else whatever you are storing will get moldy/mildewing over time. Not too familiar with brick sealants but imagine you can probably get a breathable one.

In other news my core drilling went very well over the weekend and I know have a neatly piped in extraction pipe for the tumble dryer and the new utility room is done bar a new door

Very useful advise here ^^^^^ so thanks all. The HSS diamond core driller rental seemed like a good deal for £35 all in with loads of different sized core drill bits included.

Remember my cellar?

Finally apparently our water pipe (in the top photo) is lead and this is bad (it was outlawed in 1970). This should really have been removed when they converted our building into two flats in '86, but they didn't do it.

Fella, get rid of your lead pipe, for peace of mind if nothing else. If you have kids or thinking about having kids then you are exposing them to serious health issues, even in adults lead poisoining is something you do not want, can't shake off with ease and has long term illness potential. Not sure how much you lead you have, but the scrap value alone will certainly contribute to the cost of having plastic installed.

Don't kid yourself with those reports. It was banned in the 70's becuase it is a serious health risk and that is coming from an era when smoking, drinking and fry ups were deemed as an "acceptable" lifestyle.

If you've ever cut open a lead pipe in London you'll see it's lined with a century's limescale the lead does not come into contact with the water.
It may be an issue in soft water areas.

^ this is mostly true, but the limescale can cake and break off... The patches you get are hArdly likely to kill... But best get rid if Nows a good time.

There's no harm in replacing it.
TBH old lead paint is a much bigger health hazard - though only really to children and only when it's in dust form from sanding.

Neverredecorate.

..and that is coming from an era when smoking, drinking and fry ups were deemed as an "acceptable" lifestyle.

whoa there nelly, what are you a saying?

next you'll be saying thatcher's dead..

I demolished the wall, rather than remove the paint #onlywaytobesure

Our current immersion heater has a big lead overflow pipe - looking forward to taking that out and scrapping it along with the water cylinder.

In other news - Central heating is all fitted, done a brilliant job.

Gas goes on tomorrow then the plumbers are back to connect all up to the meter.

So we'll have central heating soon!!

So we'll have central heating soon!!

Well timed, sir.

Remember my cellar?

I finally got around to getting a builder to have a look earlier this week with a view to getting the repointing etc. done.

He's (very) local and comes recommended - we know a couple who have used him and are happy with his work and he's repointed a whole house down the road. A few things I'm not sure about though...

One is that he thinks it would be a waste of time/money to use lime mortar - it would create issues due to the confined space of the cellar and cost a lot more. He reckons the original cement was portland, which having done some cursory googling seems feasible as it was invented in England in 1824, and our house is 1860s. He's confident nothing will crack down the road and has pointed out that as he only does local work he's got his reputation to worry about - if it did crack it wouldn't do his reputation locally much good. So, I think I'm ok with that.

He also thinks sealing the bricks with brick seal once the repointing is done would be a good idea. My only question with this is whether the walls will be able to breath with this stuff on? Everyone seems to think this is important. As I understand it he is suggesting using this to keep moisture out of the cellar?

Finally apparently our water pipe (in the top photo) is lead and this is bad (it was outlawed in 1970). This should really have been removed when they converted our building into two flats in '86, but they didn't do it.

He reckons long term it's not good to have all our water going through a lead pipe and I should let him replace it with a plastic one, but google says lead pipes in hard water areas will have a limescale coating that will stop us getting poisoned. I'm inclined to replace it anyway as otherwise he'll have to repoint around it, but any thoughts?

so 147 years later, the bricks need sealing?

re-point it and leave it alone.

as for the pipe, i'd replace it.

Well timed, sir.

Exactly what I thought! At least we'll have it in time for next year.

Means I'll also have to get cavity and loft insulation done before the cold weather comes back.

so 147 years later, the bricks need sealing?

re-point it and leave it alone.

This. Sealing it will trap any moisture in the wall causing it to rot. Allow it to breathe. Using lime mortar is better as it allows movement without falling apart and it's breathable.

Does any one know where to buy a sliding door kit like this, all the ones i find are in the USA, just want simple barn door style.

http://www.hafele.com/us/products/barn-door-hardware.asp

thanks but aint that a USA sight? couldn't find a uk section. edit.. found the UK site cheers Dammit

They have a UK site - www.hafele.co.uk - but don't appear to stock that item.

hmmmm. ill keep searching, cheers

It's a tricky one- the rustic style of the one you are after is difficult to find in the UK.

Have you had a look here?

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/sliding_door_hardware

cheers, i may have to re think as your right finding the rustic style ones seems to be USA only, i will extend my search to mainland Europe, thinking there may be a french equivalent.

Problem is the door will open on the wrong side.

Ive seen them on a Uk website when I was ordering heavy duty black iron gate hinges - it was a basic agricultural supply type place.I'll see if I can find it...
I have pretty good luck just calling and asking questions, someone will be able to point you to a vendor.

Just a quick recommendation for anyone who has a circular saw to make themselves a guide- I made mine out of two offcuts of plywood, then glued and screwed it together.

Makes shortening a door a 3 minute job:

1. Assemble the Usual Suspects
   

2. Measure and mark up
   

3. Make sure nothing is going anywhere
   

4. Run the saw along the guide
   
   

5. Re-hang your door.