Road bike recommendations

Which leads me to this £880 Cannondale Synapse 105. That is, if Evans is correct in suggesting that 54 cm the ideal size for my height at 174cm/5'8''.
What's your inseam length? I'm 5'8/29" and started on a 54cm Focus but 52 or even 50cm is a better fit now. If you're normally proportioned and don't have gorilla arms I'd suggest the lower side of 54cm.

^^ Sorry, I meant that both work perfectly fine for riding fixed rather than having the same design.

SPDs are fine. ATACs are fine. Pick the ones to suit your budget. SPD cleats last forever. ATACs are probably a bit better for fixie skidding with a wider release point. Irrelevant on a road bike but if you move to clipless on fixed why use two systems.

Brilliant guys. This is just the sort of been-there-done-that tried and tested advice I need. No way I could get this kind of advice on road forum.

Rep all around. (EDIT - seems I don't really know how that system works..)

Hey guys, could do with some advice: I've found an older Specialized Allez for sale locally. I think it's 06/07 model with the older tiagra 9 speed groupset - worth it at £200? I dont know how good the older Allez frames are but I figure if it's not that great a ride I should still be able to sell the parts and get most of my cash back?

If it's fit and well looked after, why not.

What's your inseam length? I'm 5'8/29" and started on a 54cm Focus but 52 or even 50cm is a better fit now. If you're normally proportioned and don't have gorilla arms I'd suggest the lower side of 54cm.

If your inseam is only 29" then you have a proportionaly longer torso. Average for this height is an inseam more than 2 inches longer! If this is not a measurement mistake I would look to an oversquare frame--- top-tube longer than seat-tube. The average frame size for someone your height is 52cm c-c . You, however, will (if your height and inseam have been correctly measured) probably need a smaller seat-tube and a longer top-tube. The measurements seem to indicate a need for a custom frame. With standard frames you indeed probably want a small frame with steeper seat-tube angle. With the saddle pushed back on the rails and a long (negative rise) stem one might be able to get a half-way fit..

You are as bad as Edscoble.

I'd recommend some atacs (spds are ok too). That way if you want clipless pedals on your daily ride you don't need a whole second system.

Riding street shoes with SPDs or ATACs is not a great idea. I think the best approach for a ride to the office---- unless one wants to change shoes---- is to use clips and straps. If one wants to change shoes then I'd go for one of the dedicated systems: Time Xpresso, Look Keo, SPD-SL or Speedplay Zero. Time ATACs are wonderful for touring but they need dedicated shoes too. If you are not touring, viz. have need to walk around a lot in cycling shoes, I don't see the need for them as they are as a road pedal inferior to some of the other choices---- with Time I'd compare to the TBTs but they have been long discontinued (and demanded very special shoes also no longer available).

When it comes to comuting I think youre wrong. don't know if they're all the same but I went through 2 sets of LOOK deltas in a year (the right ones more and that's taking switching into account). Even if you're bikes locked really close that little bit of walking and putting your dominant foot down rinces them. (this really adds up c.£30 in a year)

I'm still on my first set of atacs after +1 yr. The two big differences are that MTB shoes have a built up sole and the cleats are smaller. Therefore, less wear.

That said I take your point about just having road shoes for road riding if you're always going to commute in clips/straps. But personally I prefer clipless, as with straps I still ended up using only one pair of shoes and they ended up getting worn badly on the tops.

It's also worth noting that systems like Deta's are very cheap to pick up because they're older. I also find them good. That said once my delta cleats wear I'll switch to Keo's because they're lighter... just no point in spending more when I've got something that works.

Just going back to the bike I really rate bikeradar for second hand stuff. But if you're still unsure as to fit a shop is a good idea... and fwiw 52cm sounds much more on the money than 54cm (we're similar heights).

Riding street shoes with SPDs or ATACs is not a great idea. I think the best approach for a ride to the office---- unless one wants to change shoes---- is to use clips and straps. If one wants to change shoes then I'd go for one of the dedicated systems: Time Xpresso, Look Keo, SPD-SL or Speedplay Zero. Time ATACs are wonderful for touring but they need dedicated shoes too. If you are not touring, viz. have need to walk around a lot in cycling shoes, I don't see the need for them as they are as a road pedal inferior to some of the other choices---- with Time I'd compare to the TBTs but they have been long discontinued (and demanded very special shoes also no longer available).

Well yes riding atacs in 'street shoes' is for emergencies only, although you can get time and shimano mtb pedals with platforms.

You are as bad as Edscoble.

That's a massive compliment coming from you.

Riding street shoes with SPDs or ATACs is not a great idea. I think the best approach for a ride to the office---- unless one wants to change shoes---- is to use clips and straps. If one wants to change shoes then I'd go for one of the dedicated systems: Time Xpresso, Look Keo, SPD-SL or Speedplay Zero. Time ATACs are wonderful for touring but they need dedicated shoes too. If you are not touring, viz. have need to walk around a lot in cycling shoes, I don't see the need for them as they are as a road pedal inferior to some of the other choices---- with Time I'd compare to the TBTs but they have been long discontinued (and demanded very special shoes also no longer available).

What utter bullshit. Clips and straps to commute with is the best approach only if you don't want to change shoes at work. Understandable if you work somewhere you need trainers for and have no space in your bag for shoes. But if you can leave shoes at work, or in your bag, or work somewhere you need shoes that aren't comfortable to cycle in, clipless is best.
Time Xpresso, Look Keo, SPD-SL and Speedplay Zero's all use expensive cleats that wear down relatively quickly. I've spent shit loads of money on Keo cleats from commuting in them. I would recommend any of those pedals systems for actual road cycling where you won't really be putting your foot down, but for commuting they are the most inconvenient.
How are Time ATAC's inferior to any of the other mentioned pedal systems? They are built for a different purpose and I would argue the shoes matter more than the pedals do. Speaking of which, mtb shoes which are compatible with Time ATAC and Shimano SPD are way better for commuting it, they don't wear out quickly, they are better to walk in, easier to clip in to and the cleats last much, much longer.
ATAC's can be perfectly valid pedals for any kind of road cycling, depending on which shoes you use.

AFAIK both the Time ATAC and Shimano SPD systems were designed after 1980. In the weird parallel universe inhabited solely by EdwardZ, this means they're rubbish. I'm sure EdwardZ's advice is highly pertinent in his weird parallel universe, but I agree that for everyone else it's totally bollocks.

I wore MW80's all day today, including walking around for an hour at lunch time, then jumped back on the bike at the end of the day and cycled home.

/csb

What utter bullshit. Clips and straps to commute with is the best approach only if you don't want to change shoes at work.

Exactly as I said.. Please re-read!

Understandable if you work somewhere you need trainers for and have no space in your bag for shoes.

Why trainers? I'm talking about half-shoes (Oxfords, Derbys, Monks, Brogues etc.). Trainers are for "training".

But if you can leave shoes at work, or in your bag, or work somewhere you need shoes that aren't comfortable to cycle in, clipless is best.

I have nothing against clipless. I switched to them back in the early 1990s. When I used to ride with clips and straps I also had special shoes. My best where wooden soled monsters with a metal cleat and even less suitable to walking than the Time TBT shoes and cleats that replaced them.

Time Xpresso, Look Keo, SPD-SL and Speedplay Zero's all use expensive cleats that wear down relatively quickly. I've spent shit loads of money on Keo cleats from commuting in them.

I must nearly agree. What I liked about Time TBT was that the cleat was extremely robust. At first I had some rubber covers called "Kool Kaps" but they did not seem to stay put.. and without them I still got years out of a pair of cleats.. It takes a lot to wear down the big block of brass. When its worn down you just can't clip in..

I'm not yet quite convinced by the Xpresso. If Time made a revamped TBT I'd buy it but instead they've moved over to making pedals addressing problems I never had--- my wife too never had problems clipping into her TBTs. Of all the current crop of pedals the Speedplay Zero comes about as close to meeting my needs they unfortunately come these days... I'd, however, never recommend it to someone looking for a system to commute in.

I would recommend any of those pedals systems for actual road cycling where you won't really be putting your foot down,

Recreational cycling always demands that one stops at crossings,, and that means clip-out and put your foot down.

If your inseam is only 29" then you have a proportionaly longer torso. Average for this height is an inseam more than 2 inches longer! If this is not a measurement mistake I would look to an oversquare frame--- top-tube longer than seat-tube. The average frame size for someone your height is 52cm c-c . You, however, will (if your height and inseam have been correctly measured) probably need a smaller seat-tube and a longer top-tube.
If I didn't have a chronic back problem - reduced flexibility - this would be appropriate. Instead I need a "normal" TT and tall HT (or comedy stem).

AFAIK both the Time ATAC and Shimano SPD systems were designed after 1980. In the weird parallel universe inhabited solely by EdwardZ, this means they're rubbish.

Don't care for the SPDs--- which are quite different from SPD-SL which are really a variant of Look--- but my wife's tourer has ATACs. I used to be quite a fan of Time---- still a big fan of their older stuff (and ATACs are older stuff that they luckily did not break while "improving" upon them).

Recreational cycling always demands that one stops at crossings,, and that means clip-out and put your foot down.

Or trackstand LIKE A BOSS

If I didn't have a chronic back problem - reduced flexibility - this would be appropriate. Instead I need a "normal" TT and tall HT (or comedy stem).

Cyclists usually have strong backs and back pain typically comes more from a combination of some over-developed muscle groups and a number of underdeveloped muscles, especially weak undeveloped abdominal--- of which I am also guilty. Aside from building up ones weak stomach muscles one should try to stretch out rather than sit erect. An erect position increases stress and impacts on the vertabrae. Lowering the stem and increasing reach deceases stresses on ones back and helps stretch muscles.

Or trackstand LIKE A BOSS

Very few people can trackstand on a multigeared bicycle--- and the position needed (angled bars, pressure on pedals, brakes engaged) is typically ill-suited to vehicular cycling.

Just point the front wheel toward the crown of the road, then you can balance against that- no need to keep the brakes engaged.

EdwardZ, are you going for the title of chief forum nonsense dispenser? Firstly, that is a hotly contested title, so good luck. Secondly, perhaps you could consolidate it all into a single thread I could ignore?

Sounds like a cracking T-shirt.

LFGSS, dispensing nonsense since 2007.