That extra length on a rope is dead handy for when you have to use an anchor that's distant from the edge. Ideally you should find two anchors and form a triangle between them with the trailing rope going down. The length of rope, when used with slings makes up an integral part of this. Where the nasty rough abrading edge is, substitute a sling, and then have a locking device placed at a free running point.
7mm for prussiks, don't need it, 3mm or even paracord is adequate (there's no dynamic loading)
Even sports climbers can't always rely on a nice large st/st bolt conveniently situated, and so have to resort to placing nuts/cams. I've been on some spanish limestone where the spacing of bolts was so 'sporting' as to be terminal in event of a fall; a bit of trad pro just made the route's do-able (in my head at least).
Plus, you'll soon want to be getting out on the grit and mountain crags, where trad gear is required.
That extra length on a rope is dead handy for when you have to use an anchor that's distant from the edge. Ideally you should find two anchors and form a triangle between them with the trailing rope going down. The length of rope, when used with slings makes up an integral part of this. Where the nasty rough abrading edge is, substitute a sling, and then have a locking device placed at a free running point.
7mm for prussiks, don't need it, 3mm or even paracord is adequate (there's no dynamic loading)
Even sports climbers can't always rely on a nice large st/st bolt conveniently situated, and so have to resort to placing nuts/cams. I've been on some spanish limestone where the spacing of bolts was so 'sporting' as to be terminal in event of a fall; a bit of trad pro just made the route's do-able (in my head at least).
Plus, you'll soon want to be getting out on the grit and mountain crags, where trad gear is required.