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• #52
Holy crap. Thats amazing. Nice work!
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• #53
now to get a blue nail polish and fill in those lug cut outs and seat stay cap pantos.
well nice.
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• #54
now to get a blue nail polish and fill in those lug cut outs and seat stay cap pantos.
The seatstays are outward embossed, not sure how to manage that. Isn't enamel paint more suitable for pin striping etc?
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• #55
Wow, stunning indeed! Nicely done.
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• #56
beautiful.
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• #57
That's how you do it!
If you want some nice looking Campy SL pedals that won't ruin you, hit me up on a pm.
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• #58
very nice!
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• #59
Awesome!
If you want me to paint in the blue bits let me know.
edit: i'd use enamel as there's no colour-matching involved, btw.
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• #60
Sorry guys for showing off so much, but i can't get over the beautiful color it has.. When the sun shines it's turning into gold.
I'll give her a few days more to cure the paint, and then it's going to be build.
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• #61
Give it weeks! weeks!
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• #62
he's right, y'know.
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• #63
Awesome!
If you want me to paint in the blue bits let me know.
edit: i'd use enamel as there's no colour-matching involved, btw.
That badge turned out rather nice!
Give it weeks! weeks!
Seriously, that long?
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• #64
Holy crap that colour in sunshine is amazing.
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• #65
--
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• #66
I've let the paint cure for a while and mounted the headset, bottom bracket, and the crankset. A bit of a bad photo, but it's not yet time for beauty shots :)
I'm facing a few technical issues that have to be solved: the frontfork is a bit too long, and i don't want to use 4 spacers to fill the threads up. I don't want to buy the parktool for it, so i am open for suggestions how to do this in a sensible way.
AND,
the clearance between the chainwheel and stays are verrrry small:Is this seriously normal? It is like 1mm before it scratches my expensive laquer... The bottom bracket fits pretty good, very smooth. It is a 68-p-120 axle, and the measured chainline from the center of the frame is 45mm which is pretty standard.
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• #67
looking real good so far.
regarding the fork, I would thread on a disposable top race and us as a sawing guide. will there be enough thread left to use?
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• #68
Why go with a machined rim on the front?
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• #69
looking real good so far.
regarding the fork, I would thread on a disposable top race and us as a sawing guide. will there be enough thread left to use?
Nice diy fix. Will use that me thinks
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• #70
looking real good so far.
regarding the fork, I would thread on a disposable top race and us as a sawing guide. will there be enough thread left to use?
Thanks, that worked out quite well.. i've probably didn't cut off enough yet :)
@ thrust: the machined rim is from another bike.. still have to spoke the front wheel
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• #71
laced yet?
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• #72
The picture of the frame is the sunlight is brilliant... Can't resist... More pictures!
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• #73
Whaoo! This Benotto is pure beauty!
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• #74
tnx guys, still have to lace the front wheel, more pics after that :)
the clearance (or better: lack of clearance) on the chain wheel is concerning me quite a bit.. the chain line is really straight though, so i'm almost thinking it is the right setup..It didn't scratch the frame until now, but when i'm taking it for a proper testdrive (and there is more strength involved, so perhaps i need more tolerance?) i don't want the chainwheel taking a bite from the frame.
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• #75
I'm no expert but the clearance looks too small for me - don't really know how stiff this frameset is but I think that it could very well flex enough to scrape the chainstay when you apply more force through the cranks. Did you measure the chainline or it just "looks" right? I would try swapping the BB for a longer one if possible.
Ohw, and almost forgot :)
Took a while, but the result is stunning.