Which Chain? (Chains / Size / Width / Wear)

Tbh on cheaper bikes I tend to just join the chain normally, i mean, with a fixed gear you're going to have to cut the chain down anyhow, why not just rejoin it old school as you are going to have the tool?

Because the best ⅛" chains have heavily peened pins, which are not reusable. Sure, on cheap flush riveted chains you can do it the old fashioned way with a modicum of success, but it will always be inferior to doing it properly.

Also, very few dérailleur geared bikes need the full 114-116 links that come in the box with dérailleur chain, so your argument would apply to them just as much as it does to single speeds

So glad to see love for the split links in here. A few mechanics I know consider them to be an amateurs way of joining chain, I prefer to use them as I've had plenty re-rivetted joints fail but never a split link.

Saying that though, I had to put a couple links in the chain on a track tandem the other day, there was no split link in the chain that was fitted and no spare so had to do two old school joints. I then learned that said tandem was being used to practice standing starts! I'm happy to say the joints I made held up but I held my breath at every start.

The chain was an Izumi Super Tough so that probably helped. Don't they come with the screw joints? No idea why one wasn't fitted but I imagine it would have been a top British Cycling mechanic that put it on so maybe they don't like them.

The chain was an Izumi Super Tough so that probably helped. Don't they come with the screw joints?

Yes, Izumi V Super-Toughness comes with a screw master link. I think all NJS chains do.

I imagine it would have been a top British Cycling mechanic that put it on so maybe they don't like them.

Or maybe they use new pins and have the tool to peen the pins properly? No idea - just guessing as to why they might have shunned the screw thingy.

My NJS HKK Vertex snapped at the master link. But the rest of the chain was absolutely fine. I will never be using a master link again.

Or maybe they use new pins and have the tool to peen the pins properly? No idea - just guessing as to why they might have shunned the screw thingy.

Yeah maybe. I thought we had the peening tool (we have the £6k Park master toolkit) but couldn't find it.

My NJS HKK Vertex snapped at the master link. But the rest of the chain was absolutely fine. I will never be using a master link again.

That's the chain I use. How did the screwed link fail?

I haven't had any trouble with them, touch wood, but occasionally I have joined the chain re-using rivets when needing to add or remove a link.

Is an HKK Vertex a chain with peened pins that should not be reinserted?

So how do I tell if my bike is running 1/8 or a 10 speed chain? Chainring is 9 speed but I've no idea what the fixed gear on the back is. Or should I use 9 speed chain or just not worry about it and buy 10 speed? I don't skid but I do use the pedals to slow down.

Look at the cog and read it.

If it doesn't says anything, take it to a bicycle shop and ask them.

Also, you don't need to run a 9 speed chain specifically, just get any old 3 3/2 or 1 1/8 chain, the latter will fit, but advisable to use the 3 3/2 one.

I think you mean 1/8" and 3/32", as in an eighth of an inch and 3 thirty twoths of an inch.

I don't think 1 1/8" chain would go down well with the weight weenies

Reasons to not use a chain designed for derailleurs on a fixed drive train is that they have side to side movement designed in to allow them to shift across cassettes and in some cases are directional too.

Single speed chains do not have chamfering/shaped plates etc. to allow shifting.

im pretty new to road riding, and i was wondering how long a drive chain is supposed to last?

Ive been riding the same (cheap) one for about six months, and its starting to make some serious noise. i do about 8-10 a work day, with some reasonable weekend rides... is it time for some new parts? i have swapped frames, but the chainline looks fine now, i just want the silence back!

Have you lubed it? If you;ve ridden it over winter with no lube that'd explain the noise.

just popping out for some lube...

Always clean your chain before you lube it!

Otherwise you make a nice grinding paste out of all the shit on your chain currently.
I just use old t-shirts and drag them over the chain until it sparkles... jazz hands

Stick it in a pan, put water and cirtus cleaner in.
Boil it.
Repeat for the other side.

Or just put it into a bottle with dilute citrus cleaner in it and shake like mad and then rub it in a rag. Then rinse it.

Check sheldon brown.

its on the washing line as i type!
closer inspection of the rear hub though reveals that its sticking at one point in its rotation, so i'm thinking the bearings may be shagged. either that or the axle? theyre only joytech hubs, and trawling through here and the rest of the interwebs they get very mixed reviews

Joytech are sealed bearing aren't they? If so, it's pretty cheap to replace the bearings. I've bought some FAG and SKF ones from Bolton Engineering in the past.

chains back on, but it still doesnt sound amazing. Its like a clicking, like the chain doesnt fit the sprocket (which it should, theyre both 3/32) surely its not a case of replace the lot? its not that old for that kind of wear is it?!

Butters; yeah they are sealed. shouldnt be too much of prob even for me. gonna be next job.

Can anyone recommend a good chain to use with a Surly Dingle Cog (Fixed) and 3/32" chainrings?
I was thinking SRAM PC971, is there anything else I should consider?

^For the above setup I've bought a KMC Z610HX BMX chain. Looks nice and meaty.

Apologies for bumping this thread, and again apologies for not starting my own but I'm still in the nursery. I recently bought a tired old Dawes Galaxy from the mid 80's, for some reason the chain pitch is way off when trying to run it on a standard 16T sprocket. Is it possible Dawes just did this to be damn awkward? Any help will be vastly appreciated

Do you mean pitch, or width? A 1980s Galaxy would have a standard ½"×3/32" chain, which won't work on a ⅛" wide track sprocket.

The pitch, i took off the old cassette (where it tracked all nice) and tried it (with the chain the bike came with) on a borrowed wheel with what i assume is a standard 16T sprocket. But for some reason as I tested it, the chain was good for a couple of teeth before reaching a point where the point between the links made contact with the sprocket teeth - so in effect it looked as though it was running like an osymetric chainring if that helps. Any idea why?

Oh bugger and just remembered its a Dawes Shadow, I presume they run the same gearing