2007 Cannondale SystemSix Team Si

The tune collar has too much friction with the frame tube. so when you tighten it, you simply squeeze the slit together, instead of the seat tubes diameter being evenly reduced. Pisser.

Reversing the clamp would fix that though. Together wit a little greese to allow the clamp to move over the tube better.

I lubricated the collar with Teflon grease before installing it - in order to avoid "too much friction" situations.

That's the pisser- I've been really careful, and still fucked it.

Ouch, that sux.

Did the original clamp sink deeper onto the seattube?

No, original clamp is shallower.

Fuckity fuck.

could (maybe hypotheticaly) it be a fault with the post? isn't there a warranty.

I'm not sure.
Q- What has happened?
A- Difficult to tell exactly, certainly the gel-coat is split, the underlying carbon might also be
Q- Has the seatpost clamp ever been tightened past 5Nm?
A- No, never, assembled with CF grip-paste and a Norbar torque wrench

But:
Q- What happened with your new post did you say?
A- I put it in, and it also got a faint mark where the other post is damaged
Q- So it might be a combination of frame and seat post collar?
A- It might be

But then, it's not actually been overtightened.

I don't know. Arse.

you don't really need to tell them your old post was damaged. try it. it's worth a punt.

I'd feel like I was trying to pull a fast one.

Neil, I think it's the paint on the seatpost. I have torqued mine to 4nm with fiber grip and the paint is fucked on it, proper flaked off. Admittedly I once tightened it with my multi tool while out on a ride but there's no way I could get over 5nm with that tiny thing.

I had an identical symptom two years ago. The post was replaced by the manufacurer (warranty).
I always put collars on reversed and never over-tighten.
The problem never repeated itself with the new post in the same bike.
If you continue to use your damaged post, the torque required so the post is not slipping will become greater because the part with the bulge is delaminated and compressible.

It's got a battery in it, so it'll only compress so far.

ANYWAY, here's hoping that I'll like the position of the inline so much that I never want to go back to the layback/Dorico.

I don't really understand these things, but if the new seatpost collar is thinner (smaller surface area touching the tubing) then would this not apply more pressure for the same tightnesss of bolt thus maybe deforming the seat tube more and causing the damage??

New collar actually had a lot more surface area.

I think it was possessed.

Dull update: I replaced the light, bling front mech band with a the (relatively) heavy, black alloy Dura-Ace one.

The front mech is now solid as a rock, whereas before it was flexing from the effort of moving the chain up onto the big ring.

If we ever see a return to a positive temperature I'll take it for a ride, but first impressions of it in the stand is that the already fast front shift just got faster.

Turbo session tonight, checked the battery level before I started and it was flashing green- finished my session when the battery went flat at the 51 minute mark.

BB30 bearings are shot to bits, and I need to pull the entire assembly anyway as the new front mech clamp mounts the derailleur quite a bit further to the right.

I reckon going back to the standard axle, and maybe losing the SRM bearing shield in order to bring the chainrings in toward the centre line of the bike as currently the front shifting is really not working.

The new position feels good, natural after using it on the track bike, and 3T have warrantied the post after I swore on the most holy of bibles that I'd never over-tightened it.

Good news on the seatpost. The battery sounds rather annoying though.

Problem with the charger connection perhaps?

It's on charge now- it was pancake-flat.

To be fair to it at the end of my session I was constantly shifting at the front whilst trying to adjust the mech so it worked, and that is known to drain the battery fast.

I'll take the cranks off, knock the bearings out, stick new ones in and mount the Rotor cranks, post the Hollowgrams to SRM in Germany with a note saying "ACHTUNG!" and this picture:

Let's hope they're impressed with the figures ;-)

I'd like to point out that that was between intervals. And I'm ill.

EDIT the point being, I didn't stop pedalling, but according to the SRM I did.

This makes me cross.

Out of curiosity, with all of the hassle you seem to have with the SRM are you glad you have it?

Ironically my old (wired) one was perfect, and significantly cheaper.

I'll get this one fixed under warranty, if that is SRM ever respond to me.

Still is. ;)

SRM have been really slow in getting back to me when I've emailed them.
I know Jon Sharples at Trainsharp, Crowbrough, is an SRM dealer too, might be worth trying him, unless it has to go back to SRM germany.