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• #2
gone again! C@&nting F:ckars{ing cu(T!
the slime not worked, cannot bear to even look at the wheel now for a few days
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• #3
Tougher tyres must be your solution no? I've always though that slime - with the weight increase and hassle is less of a solution than a more puncture proof boot.
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• #4
I'm interested in this also. Two of my bikes have had several punctures recently (tyres are on the way out to be fair), both of which weigh close to 25kg so I don't care about the weight increase (though surely it's less than 50g, will look into this also) and it's a pain in the arse to fix punctures with them. Thinking tyre replacements and slime in the tubes will last for quite a while longer!
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• #5
I just think - get robust tyres and don't bother with the green goo.
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• #6
Yep, I've used Stans sealant on 18-25c inner tubes. I've used tubes with removable cores, and then used the Stans syringe (after removing the valve cores) to inject the sealant into the tubes. Seems to work well enough.
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• #7
Thicker tyres! I'm telling you. Why are we injecting gunk into our tubes which ultimately increase weight and unbalance the roll when we could just get a slightly heavier but tougher tyre. Seems daft.
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• #8
In my experience the slime version isn't that good. Decent tyres with a puncture resistant strip are worth every penny but you can still get a puncture. If you don't want to have to carry a spare tube or other kit every time you ride it's worth getting some tubes with this in it http://stanstiresealant.com
You do need valves with removable cores such as schwalbe tubes have and you get it in to the tube through the valve using a syringe just like the slime product but much easier as its not gloopy and thick. It is really good stuff and is the same as is used in most tubeless mtb tyres. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs"]NoTubes
- Tire Sealant, Path of Death Puncture Demo - YouTube[/ame] -
• #9
Thicker tyres! I'm telling you. Why are we injecting gunk into our tubes which ultimately increase weight and unbalance the roll when we could just get a slightly heavier but tougher tyre. Seems daft.
A dose of Stans in an inner tube weighs about 20g. IME, a tougher tyre will have a much greater weight penalty. I can't say I've ever noticed any wheel imbalance as a result of using Stans either in inner tubes or tubeless set-ups.
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• #10
Fixed some tubs with it before but here's a demo with a road tubeless setup at much higher pressures than the first vid.
Don't really know why I've put off putting it in the commuter wheels after watching this.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8fRx6lUh_k"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8fRx6lUh_k[/ame
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• #11
stans is such a good product I'm surprised I don't hear more about it outside of mountain biking. The weight won't be a factor for most people when you consider in most cases it will avoid the numb fingered, side of the road faffing about and eventual pushing bike to work scenario. Today I'm off to test out my rigid, ss, mtb that I just set up tubeless yesterday.
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• #12
A dose of Stans in an inner tube weighs about 20g. IME, a tougher tyre will have a much greater weight penalty. I can't say I've ever noticed any wheel imbalance as a result of using Stans either in inner tubes or tubeless set-ups.
^ This. I never got the "additional weight" thing. I had no idea how much the sealant would weigh but I was pretty damn sure it'd be less than 50g, much less than the additional weight of an extra tough tyre.
Like I said above, the two bikes i'll be using it on are close to 25kg, I won't notice the weight at all. Then there's the fact that it's hard to find 700-37 tyres with puncture protection that don't look utterly daft on an old Dutch bike. I'll be going with the usual £7 ones that usually last 2 years or so with a dollop of sealant and i'm sure that'll work quite nicely!
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• #13
Fair dos.
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• #14
as a kid I used some stuff called "tyre Weld" think u still get it, the Slime I think is just shit for thin tubes 23mm the one I could get the valve out from the front wouldn't allow the stupid stuff in even standing on the Slime package! just too thick I'm going... to try that Stans stuff
Just seems very odd cutting a trye open to stop a puncture by fixing a puncturestill haven't been able to look at that fucker!!!!
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• #15
the fucker with 4 punctures in 3 days
FUCKER
made me walk 90 mins on friday night.. fucker!
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• #16
Dumb fucker, carry a pump, tube and a lever and fix puncture.
Bingo, avoid 90min walk.
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• #17
and £9.99 on the fucking slime, that did totally shat all except added an unnecesary puncture repair
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• #18
Dumb fucker, carry a pump, tube and a lever and fix puncture.
Bingo, avoid 90min walk.
even if I had a toolkit with me I would rather walk,
or lock the bike up and use my oyster card,
than be fixing my bike on the road
nothing wrong with roadside repairs but for me that's not the time or place
i.e in a suit outside Queensbury stationI was looking for technology not a back to basics approach, no offense furious tiles
I don't worry about my BB, or my spokes or my brakes or my seatpost clamp etc and don't carry a spoke key etc etc
really don't care about the weight was just looking for a solution with clincher wheels
the tubeless video adoubletap posted pretty much says it all think for me it might be the right pathpeace
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• #19
Used the last bit of slime in a car valve tyre 700x38 tube, went in like a dream so would say use slime for these
for presta valve and thin tubes definitely would not recommend this one its too thick/viscous
even if you can get the valve out the stuff doesn't go in.... and if you can push the valve down into the tube
would only be fuckery to get it back in againthe end
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• #20
Stans is the way - have been using it on my mtbs with a tubeless setup for the past 3 years and on my other bikes as well. Slime however is utter pants. If you stick with Conti or Schawalbe inner tubes the application of stans works well with a syringe or the applicator bottle through the removable core. Although you've got to remember that Stans solution will not seal instantly in colder temps like today.
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• #21
cheers Pas will give it a try ! in Slime's defence the old tube I used actually had a slow puncture, pumped it up last night to 110 psi and its still at 110 this afternoon so did work.
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• #22
Used Slime on previous bike, Continental tubes with removable cores and stripped out an old valve to make a filling adaptor, and Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres did 2500 miles without a single puncture and holds pressure indefinitely - you need to use an old valve attached to a Presta-Schrader adapter as the filling tube provided is meant for Schrader
That was on 700*28 tyres and used 2oz (about 50g) in each wheel, and didn't notice any wobbles or funny handling - new bike has 700*23 and because I didn't have any other bikes that needed treating with Slime I used half a bottle (4oz/100g) in each wheel, and when the wheels are spun by hand there is a definite wobble until the Slime is spun round the circumference of the tyre
+1 for decent tyres as first line of defence though!
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• #23
Fixed some tubs with it before but here's a demo with a road tubeless setup at much higher pressures than the first vid.
Don't really know why I've put off putting it in the commuter wheels after watching this.
That is quite compelling
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• #24
Used Slime on previous bike, Continental tubes with removable cores and stripped out an old valve to make a filling adaptor, and Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres did 2500 miles without a single puncture and holds pressure indefinitely - you need to use an old valve attached to a Presta-Schrader adapter as the filling tube provided is meant for Schrader
That was on 700*28 tyres and used 2oz (about 50g) in each wheel, and didn't notice any wobbles or funny handling - new bike has 700*23 and because I didn't have any other bikes that needed treating with Slime I used half a bottle (4oz/100g) in each wheel, and when the wheels are spun by hand there is a definite wobble until the Slime is spun round the circumference of the tyre
+1 for decent tyres as first line of defence though!
Thanks man will definitely try the adapter! I put a quarteer tube of slime in each of the 4 tyres, out of the 4 2 had removable valve bodies so your adapter would have been brilliant.. do you have a pic of your adapter? do you think an old crappo pump would work as a "syringe"?
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• #25
my adaptor was an old Continental valve with the inner removed (the collar and pin you unscrew when inflating the tyre)
screw that into the valve stem, then screw on a standard presta-schrader adaptor, the tube that slime supply then pushes onto it and et voila, job done
there will be a bit of mess so keep rags handy to wipe it up, and when you remove the adaptors you need to get the valve screwed back in asap and pump the tyre up
found on youtube;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nx_f1qfT_6A
- shows how it can be done on tubes without removable valveshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnbLI_tLpLs
- same method but clearer to see what to doSounds long winded, but (now with some practice!) it is quick and easy
has anyone tried tube sealant on small inner tubes? presta valves
after 3 punctures in 2 days and walking home from work 1.5 hrs decided to try this slime stuff, the tyres are continental ultra and similar tubes 700 x 23
managed to do 2 bikes,but had to cut little holes to squirt the load into them as couldn't push the valves back into the tube
or on the one that I could remove the valve outward, no way the slime would go in, even standing on the bottle
on the plus I found the metal sliver in the tyre that caused all the misery lurking in the rubber, you could only feel it with the tyre inflated, so am assuming this has been doing all the punctures (well the last 2 at least as they were in similar place but mirrored)
and now seems to be holding at 120 psi! so in a way has saved the cost of a tyre so far so good
don't think I would have found the offending splinter without inflating the tyre
has anyone tried the pre filled tubes? Different brands? using a syringe to fill the tube?
was going to try a football ball pump but this stuff is very viscous, would it work?