To all you 29er's out there!

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  • keep us updated on how they fare with use, as my cranks always end up 'polished' from contact when riding.

  • They look alright.....you could probably get a similar finish from that textured spray paint, DIY shops flog...?

  • I'm a bit worried that the cold paint will not cure as strong as it should. there are solvents in the paint designed to keep it moist long enough to cure properly, if that doesn't vaporize at all due to low temperatures, the paint may not cure at all.
    DIY texture paint is definately not very strong either.
    what you want is that wrinkly rubbery paint you use on truck beds. that's extremely strong and gives a similar effect. elephant skin, it's called where I'm from.

  • keep us updated on how they fare with use, as my cranks always end up 'polished' from contact when riding.

    It'll probs peel off with use. At which point I can just peel it all off, and respray. The question is how long its lasts relative to the time it requires to dismantle, and rebuild, my cranks. Taking into account the fact that this bike needs little maintainance as its an oil-free belt drive. So I dont dismantle it much for servicing.

    I'm a bit worried that the cold paint will not cure as strong as it should. there are solvents in the paint designed to keep it moist long enough to cure properly, if that doesn't vaporize at all due to low temperatures, the paint may not cure at all.
    DIY texture paint is definately not very strong either.
    what you want is that wrinkly rubbery paint you use on truck beds. that's extremely strong and gives a similar effect. elephant skin, it's called where I'm from.

    It's getting extra cure time, which is a bonus. I'll probably move it into the house to finish off completly before I start cleaning it up.

    Plasti-coat is plently strong enough. But the bond to the substrate is weak. So it peels with heavy use.

    Like I said the test will be how often it needs redoing.

  • Recommendations for a slack angled hardtail frame (120+ forks) which I can run singlespeed?

    Transam - Nice and I have just found ss dropouts online
    Nimble 9 - Nice but really pricey
    Ti Onone 29er - Not really keen on the frame being screwed before I buy it and would have to run gears.
    Kona have changed the dropouts on Honzo for 2013 model otherwise I would have brought one of those. bastards.

  • Kona have changed the dropouts on Honzo for 2013 model otherwise I would have brought one of those. bastards.

    I think I saw somebody over on mtbr had swapped the dropouts on the 2013 model to allow regular 135mm rear hubs.

  • now that is interesting, I didn't think it would be possible as they are now 12x142(maybe). Will go check it out.

  • I think I saw somebody over on mtbr had swapped the dropouts on the 2013 model to allow regular 135mm rear hubs.

    Somebody else on there has retrofitted the 2013 dropouts onto the 2012 frame, so they look to be interchangeable.

  • I shall read the mtbr thread when I get home. I also emailed Kona and asked them. Hopefully I get a reply.

  • I've got a trans am two9... You can swap the drop outs with ease to whatever you want. If you are in the vicinity of Stansted airport, you are welcome to have a look/go on it ;0)

  • I've got a trans am two9... You can swap the drop outs with ease to whatever you want. If you are in the vicinity of Stansted airport, you are welcome to have a look/go on it ;0)

    I hope you're not still out searching in the snow for that chain-link?

    ;-)

  • I found half of it!

    http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad131/stedlocks/8B6EB109-DD62-4C3A-BF6C-8E5D037B950D-328-0000004304C272AA.jpg

    I just split the chain and joined it properly.....I think I'm done with quick links for now, they've let me down twice recently

  • Kona got back to me this morning. You can swapout the dropouts in the 2013 model with parts number:
    CMPHCC drive side
    CMPHCCND non-drive side
    I think they are the same dropouts as the unit as well. I checked online and they are about £45/50 for both.

  • ^ A bit pricey, nice to have the option though.

    I'd love a Honzo, but it'd be wasted on me.

  • I just split the chain and joined it properly.....I think I'm done with quick links for now, they've let me down twice recently

    Or maintain it properly?

  • Ed, it's brand new, has had the original factory grease/oil removed, before using a proper lube in the perfect amount. It was re-oiled about 10 miles before it went this time, and it is less than 300 miles old.

    Is that not properly maintained?

    The snow appears to have got clogged in the chainrings and forced the quick link into the cage of the front mech.....in other words, just shit luck.

  • ^ Was it ten speed?

  • Nope....9 speed.
    The guy I got the bike from replaced the original SRAM chain with a shimano hg after the original kept chain sucking.....he said he had been delivered a dodgy batch. The quick link failed on the other due to chainsuck. This one doesn't shift as nicely, so I'll probably swap it out for a decent SRAM one....

  • I find the SRAM 9-speed hollow pin chains shift pretty well and are pretty light. A little prone to rust but otherwise good for the money

  • ^ So you were using a SRAM quick link on a Shimano chain?

    They fit, but are a little looser, in my experience. That could have been partly to blame??

  • That could have been partly to blame??

    That, plus your shoddy maintenance routine ;-)

  • No..the first one was a SRAM chain and link....lost half of that fucker in Epping.

    The 2nd one is a shimano with their link....well, the one that came with the chain.lost half of that fucker.

    Anyway, I'll buy a couple of the SRAM ones that on one are doing for a good price and revolve them regularly. I know ill still end up using the quick link, but will make sure to take a spare with me!

  • That, plus your shoddy maintenance routine ;-)

    I was thinking that, to be honest ;0)

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To all you 29er's out there!

Posted by Avatar for Rascal @Rascal

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