Bike Fitting

Move saddle forward = every 3mm counts as 1cm drop. (more upright the shorter length to the bar).

What diameter is your bar? I've got an adjustable stem going cheap that might help you work I out.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/h/option/bikesizeguide

There are lots more if you google them, seems to me you need a larger frame, though I am riding too small a frame at the moment, its a long story, and it can feel rather sporty once you get used to it, ok for distances up to 15 miles but beyond that go for larger frame and increased comfort

Adjusting for a leg length discrepancy- for the longer leg, move the cleat toward the heel of the shoe?

Just went through the competitive cyclist website fit calculator:

Interestingly it would put me on a frame with a top tube 1cm shorter than my current bike, with a stem almost 1cm longer.

So, overall not much in it, but just wondering why they'd take distance off the top tube and add it to the stem?

^1cm closer to the drag from the rider in front is a benefit (the front wheel 1cm closer to you narrows the distance).

Guys, some advise please? I tried SPDs for the first time yesterday and rode from London to Cambridge. About 40 miles in my left knee became really really painful. Sitting in the saddle was so bad I had to constantly stand up just to reduce the pain a bit. Today is better but it's still there. No pain at all in the right knee and I've never suffered with knee problems before. Anyone had similar experience?

What pedal system did you use before?

I just measured my bike against the Competitive cyclist fit, which would suggest that I move my saddle forward 3cm it would appear:

^Opening up your hips gives a better Glutes-drive/activation.

Jake, get a cleat fit from a bike fitter, that should help with any knee issues.

Thuekr- yep, and on my track bike I have an inline post, and when really driving forward can certainly feel that.

However, if I moved my saddle forward 4cm then I'd be 4cm short on their recommended saddle-bar measurement.

EDIT, I'm being thick, that's actually spot on what they want.

Thanks bothwell, I certainly will :)

Just went through the competitive cyclist website fit calculator:

Interestingly it would put me on a frame with a top tube 1cm shorter than my current bike, with a stem almost 1cm longer.

So, overall not much in it, but just wondering why they'd take distance off the top tube and add it to the stem?

The model used by them is really out-of-date. It's based upon a variant of Genzling model and is, at its core, for frames with horizontal top-tubes, quill stems and down-tube shifters. Today's road position is different. Today people spend most of their time on their hoods as that is also where their shifting controllers are located. In response to the change in position, modern road bars have also comparatively less reach and drop.

From the values spit out I would assume that you have average morphology. A typical 58 c-c frame and a 120mm or 130mm is what they suggest. I would guess that you are ~188cm (6'2") and wear size 11 shoes?

Move saddle forward = every 3mm counts as 1cm drop. (more upright the shorter length to the bar).

Rotating the rider forward is not a great idea. It not only reduces drop but also reach. I am not fan of KOPs but its does work reasonably well with a large number of frames out there--- its kind-of chicken and egg.

^^187cm and size 44 shoes.

EDIT to add bike:

^^187cm and size 44 shoes.

44 or 45 shoes is no difference.
Just to continue the game.. 87.89 cm inseam is average. This all yields a 57 cm c-c. with 56.5-57.0 top-tube and 72.5 degree or so seat-tube angle. Typical is also 120mm stem.

To up the pace.. On a traditional track bike I'd go up a bit in size. A 58--- maybe even a 59-- with a 1/2 cm longer top tube a slighly slacker seat-tube (12-20 seconds).

For an interesting approach on fit using only height see Dave Moulton's blog:
http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/category/bike-fit

--- I don't agree fully with him but some of his observations are extremely accurate and conform reasonably well with the evolving scientific literature.

My inseam is 90cm.

The reason I bothered taking the measurements is that my track bike is very similar to my road bike, but with a more forward position as it has an inline post.

It "feels" like I can output more power, for longer- my fastest laps around Regents Park are all done on the track bike to back that up.

When giving it some welly on the road bike I end up perched on the very nose of the saddle, on the drops.

I might stick an inline post on the SystemSix to see what it's like.

I meant to post this a while back, not sure if anyone has checked them out, but bespoke cycles (farringdon) do introductory bike fits priced at £50 for 30 mins or £100 for 1 hour (i went for the £100, when you get the all your bike measurements before and after sent to you as a pdf, observation of you on a turbo, quick physio assessment, and all the bike tweakage.)

No cleat set up stuff etc, but I think it was well worth my £100.

Really friendly and approachable as well, it seems their main market is serious road cyclists, but they were happy to have my old steel bike in and cater for a more relaxed audax friendly position

Hi all,

about to have a frame made but I need a little help please.

My Bridgestone is 54cm square, could do with maybe a 55cm seat-tube and a 54cm top-tube if I where to guess roughly..

As I'm having a frame made, I would like it to be absolutely perfect. I understand that a bike fit is well worth the money, but I just don't have that kinda ££ atm to chuck at it. I've looked at a few guides online and have to say I'm not really that much wiser from them. Anyone care to help me?

James

If you are paying someone to build a bike then find a builder who can properly fit you or pay someone for a bike fit

^ getting measured up is part of having a custom frame built.

However, whilst a good frame builder will make you a frame that is the right size for you, there is still benefit in getting a bike fit, as there is room for fine tuning such as stem length, saddle height, handlebar width, cleat position etc.

The thing is, unless you have a particularly unusual body shape or size, the frame dimensions don't have to be especially spot on as riding position can be adjusted using different stems, seatposts etc. this applies even more to compact frame designs which can accommodate a wider range of riders. Getting a custom frame built is more than just getting the right size, it is about having it built to your needs, for whatever purpose you have in mind for it.

Which builder do you have in mind? Talk to them and see what they offer. If you trust them (and hopefully you do) to build you the right frame then don't worry about getting a proper bike fit at the time. That can always be done later.

I appreciate your answers and agree this is part of having a custom frame built, however my situation is a little different so I cannot go to the frame builder and have them just measure me up.

Is there any other way I can do it? What measurements of my body do I need?

Get a fit done and then send the fit data to the frame builder

As DJ said .. Sounds to me like your getting a build overseas and all your budget is going on the build. Sorry, but if you "would like it to be absolutely perfect" you'd best get a proper fitting locally and send the data. Maybe delay your place in the queue till you can afford to have that done?

Can I be nosey and ask who is building your frame?