Miche Primato Hub Bearings

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  • Hippy is an ironic name for someone so uptight.

    I'm the one making the jokes and I'm uptight? Fail.
    Don't flatter yourself thinking you could wind me up.

  • Lame jokes, pompous git.

    I'm the one making the jokes and I'm uptight? Fail.
    Don't flatter yourself thinking you could wind me up.

  • How does a bearing change affect stopping distance?

    are you sure it is not the weather.

    It could be the Vaseline-excreting pigeonrats.

    haha

  • In any case, thanks to finepics for this info - made a big improvement to my bike.

  • Lame jokes, pompous git.

    Enjoying your hot cup of fail this morning? Wipe those tears away, it's just a bike forum.

  • In any case, thanks to finepics for this info - made a big improvement to my bike.

    My pleasure Sir and glad to see that it's already inflammatory!!! Actually can't believe you got a discount - you owe me a tenner!!!

  • this is very helpful, and wondered if you know where i can get a new axle with the bearing covers/washers? on one side it has had the chain come of and bend the cover. also yousay you took the bearings out with a diy tool, can we have a look, don't want to damage anything. (i am to poor)

  • Sorry to bring up an old thread, any chance someone with a miche primato front hub can measure the length of their axle? I think my axle is a little short at circa 130mm. Cheers.

  • About 140mm, which would be 100mm (modern) standard front hub width, + 2* 5mm for the fork drop outs and + 2 * 13mm for the nuts. and a couple of mm spare each side. Sounds like yours is for a 90mm fork spacing.

  • It fits pretty damn well in the two 100mm forks I have, and the distance between the outer lock nuts and its very close to 100mm. Still seems like my axle is too short though, perhaps someone screwed up the thread and cut it down? Would it be a simple job for a machine shop to make me up an axle 20mm longer?

    If it is a 90mm hub would the distance between the flanges be different from a standard 100mm hub?

  • The pictures above looks like the axle is just plain threaded bar, so it shouldn't be hard to get one made with a 9mm bar with a 1mm thread. I think standard M9 threading is 1.25mm (but comes in 1mm and .75mm too), so you might need to careful there.

    You should be able to tell if it has been cut down, by whether the ends look neatly machined or sawn/filed.

  • Just in case anyone is interested I took the front axle to a machine shop today. They reckoned it would be quite a job to machine a new one. First they'd have to take a 10mm bar down to 9mm and then would tap the thread on the lathe. They couldnt use a standard die as they dont come in 9x1, said it would take him the best part of an hour to do.

    The rear axle might be easier to do as it's 10mm though.

    The original bearings were sealed on both sides in my case and they were very easy to get out, just a bit of fiddling with the bearing nut was required.

  • Just in case anyone is interested I took the front axle to a machine shop today. They reckoned it would be quite a job to machine a new one. First they'd have to take a 10mm bar down to 9mm and then would tap the thread on the lathe. They couldnt use a standard die as they dont come in 9x1, said it would take him the best part of an hour to do.

    The rear axle might be easier to do as it's 10mm though.

    The original bearings were sealed on both sides in my case and they were very easy to get out, just a bit of fiddling with the bearing nut was required.

    No wonder British industry is failing. Best part of an hour? That would inlcude 2 fag breaks, a long shit, and nipping out for a butty, no doubt. Been a while since I used a lathe, but taking 1mm off of 150mm of bar, and then threading it on the lathe should be 10 minutes max. They are the two easiest things to do - as long as you have the right feed gears for a 1mm thread, and if you don't, then you just can't do it . I guess the machine shop you went to didn't have the 'No Job To Small' slogan on their cards.

    You should be able to buy a plain axle somewhere.
    (Harris Cyclery do them http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?id=2111 but would need to ship from US)

  • Trying to order some replacement bearings as mine seem to have self-imploded. Do we think these might work?

    http://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/deep-groove-ball-bearings/metric/6001-series/6001/?gclid=CJyyzqKS07ECFUcv3wodQXMA-g

    Don't know whether to order the C3 version or not... Do hubs count as high velocity/high temperature?

    Clearance: For each of these options you have the choice of a standard fit bearing or a C3 fit bearing, C3 have additional internal radial clearance and will feel loose when fitted until running at speed. They are commonly used in high speed and high temperature environments. If the bearing you are replacing is not stamped with C3 then you should purchase standard fit, as a rule you should replace like with like.

  • Do hubs count as high velocity/high temperature?

    Nowhere near it.

  • Oh and it's worth spending the extra £1.80 on SKF.

  • finepics, you skipped the bit about actually removing the bearings!

    As noted, there's no obvious way to get a grip on the underside with a screwdriver or the like. You said you got them out easily "with a bit of ingenuity". Care to share your insight?

  • I made a tool from an old piece of pipe (6mm diameter). I sawed the bottom part twice like an +, so that i could flare out the ends a bit (similar like the tool to get the headset cups out of a head tube). Then i inserted it from the other side and gave it a few good taps with a rubber mallet! Works like a charm

  • Tearing my hair out trying to remove the old bearings...!

  • Are they different to other sealed bearing hubs in some way? Usually the axle plays a big part in getting them out.

  • Oh - they are different.

  • Yeah - the diameter of the hole through which the axle slides is too small to get anything through thats gets decent purchase on the bearing unit to push it out.

    I gave up and went the LBS only for them to resort to the same screwdriver and hammer approach that I was using at home....

  • Unsuccessfully I might add...

  • Just in case anyone else gets here to solve the same issue - I solved it yesterday with some ease in the end!

    Bought a decent quality 6 inch nail, filed off the sharp point to give a surface to hammer, carefully filed down the diameter of the head until it just fitted through the axle hole in the bearing then dropped my home made tool (the nail!) through the bearing narrow end first (the head won't fit through the bore of the hub in the middle).

    Then turned the wheel over and angled the nail so that the head was now pressing against the inner face of the bearing and gave it a few taps with a hammer. Then started rotating the nail round (still at an angle) and tapping it - repeated until the bearing dropped out (need to rotate the nail tool so that bearing gets pressed out all round, otherwise you might jam it in catastrophically at an angle...).

    Hope that makes sense if anyone reads this!

    Cost me 10p for my home made bearing drift tool and took 20 minutes to make it and get both bearings out - great result and tons of self satisfied feelings!

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Miche Primato Hub Bearings

Posted by Avatar for finepics @finepics

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