TVT and Vitus 979 projects

Posted on
  • Not fixed or single but some nice rides, or will be.
    The TVT is one of the last models with an intergrated headtube, i picked it up in a German bike jumble.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/7387551490/in/photostream/

    Now i've tinkered about, here's how it looks.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/7866364058/in/photostream/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/7866367412/in/photostream/

    And the Vitus 979 I thought was an ebay bargain but the grub screw for the seat post was screwed. I've drilled out the hole and filled it with an aerospace aluminuim putty which is drilled and tapped after hardening. Fingers crossed it works. I'm looking to turn it into a Peugeot Carbon replica, so I'm getting the three main tubes painted matt black.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/6990176868/in/photostream/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/8076267762/in/photostream/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/8072316838/in/photostream/

    I'm slowly collecting old school Mavic stuff ready for the build. Right now I need a Mavic 630 chainset if anyone has one?

    I'll post more pix as the build goes.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/8445275032/in/set-72157631370117908

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/21450081@N04/9984343615/in/set-72157631370117908

    That's the finished project.

  • I wouldn't paint the vitus if I were you, looks handsome as-is.
    Also, I'm getting some grub screws shipped from the states and will have a spare or two, so give me a PM if you need one.
    What epoxy have you used?
    I'm in need of some high-grade epoxy to fix my Vitus (it's in the current projects, too), but they seem to get hard to get for individual customers.
    Good luck with the projects

  • Wow, I've just seen your 979, that's more than a project!!
    The thing is with the Vitus is that the tubes were pressed onto the lugs as well as bonded so I think you might struggle a bit there, but it's worth a go.
    I work in the aerospace industry so I will see if I can get some manufactures names and part numbers for you. (or maybe i can get some)
    The stuff I used is only a filler.
    Many thanks for the grub scew offer, do you know what size thread it is?

  • I've talked to a guy in the states who used to repair them for 20 years or so and he was quite confident I could do it myself. Basically I don't even need to disassemble the frame, just remove the damaged tube, prep the lugs and the new top tube tube, spread the headtube open just enough to fit the new top tube in and clamp it.
    That would be much of a help!
    [/thread hijack]
    The screw is a M10, 1.5 pitch, 12mm long cup-point set screw in stainless steel.

  • Not sure if you've tried to find this product locally "Scotchweld DP190" by 3M, it's a good structural adhesive thats used on aircraft and can be bought in shops i'm sure. I've done a quick search on the web and it's around $20 over there. If your really stuggling to find it let me know.

  • Thanks,I'll look into it. How should I apply it? I'm not really excited by the idea to buy the specific dispenser for another 80dollars.

  • Don't worry it's not required. You can push both components out with a screwdriver or similar onto a piece of card and then mix with a screwdriver or spatular. It's best to mix extra and keep it to one side to see when it's cured. Then leave a day after that. Be patient. Once mixed it's really up to you how you apply it, for the frame I would probably use a lolly stick and put it on the lug and in the tube. Preparation is really important, just make sure it's all well degreased. Use a lint free cloth and the strongest solvent degreaser you can find (white spirit will do) but don't let it air dry as it will leave a film. Keep wiping the area until it's dry with the same cloth (a bit like cleaning your windows with window cleaner until all the smears have gone) Any excess glue can be removed after with the solvent and cloth.
    Hope this helps.

  • Probably will, repped. By the way, do chemicals used to strip anodizing affect cured epoxy in any way?

  • Just had a look on the web (as I dont know)
    One shows heating with a gas torch so I would say yes, and the other with oven cleaner. Your guess is as good as mine there I'm afaid.
    I do know that Vitus tubes were anodised before assembly, hence the different coloured lugs. Also the white (like mine was) and maybe the black frames were painted not anodised. I think this would be the better route for you in the long run.

  • that is a snazzy box of mavic

  • Don't need to go to states for grub screws.

    Try Clerkenwell Screws.

  • Thanks erikjonsson. I don't think there the best brakes due to the sintered blocks, but who cares.

  • Don't need to go to states for grub screws.

    Try Clerkenwell Screws.

    Thanks for the info.

  • where did you get open4cd rims? ive been looking some some for ages

  • rogan, I got them from http://hilarystone.com/index.html . The stuff there is not the best condition but worth a look. Look in the rims section as well as complete wheels.
    Good hunting.

  • How is this going?

  • ....And the Vitus 979 I thought was an ebay bargain but the grub screw for the seat post was screwed. I've drilled out the hole and filled it with an aerospace aluminuim putty which is drilled and tapped after hardening. Fingers crossed it works.

    Hi there Racing Snake..

    Was just wondering how you got on with this? Have identical problem and am just considering using an "easy out" drill bit to drill it out (hopefully) after some soaking with Plusgas! Would love to learn from your experience as the frame and seatpin is well worth saving!

    RD

  • I've seen the grub screws occasionaly for sale on Ebay. have you tried Chainreaction.com? They own the entire Vitus brand now and i've heard they carry some vintage spares.

  • I've used this Rigid Epoxy 5 minute Structural Adhesive on both Vitus aluminium and Vitus Carbon frames, it sets absolutely solid. Althoug they say five minutes, I'd still give it 48 hours to completely cure. Belt and braces maybe, but beyter safe than sorry! These are brand new adhesives and about 2 to 3 times more powerful than what was probably used to bond the Vitus in the first place!

    I'vve also used regular Loctite superglue and a soft rubber mallet to tap a down tube back into place onto the bottom bracket. That was nine years ago and still riding it regularly.

  • Hi there Racing Snake..

    Was just wondering how you got on with this? Have identical problem and am just considering using an "easy out" drill bit to drill it out (hopefully) after some soaking with Plusgas! Would love to learn from your experience as the frame and seatpin is well worth saving!

    RD

    As long as the thread is ok this should be fine. Don't shear the easy out though or you will have problems. In my case the thread was ruined when I got it so I had no choice but to go bigger.

  • [/thread Hijack]

    It appears the Febrile is banned.

    I have a question regarding glueing TVT92 tubes - can any advise on the epoxy / resin / glue to use?

    Is that Rigid Epoxy 5 minutes Structural Adhesive any good?
    Scotchweld DP190 has also been mentioned.

    Cheers

    Vince

  • I've had a result, and with some time and patience managed to release everything on the Vitus that was corroded and stuck: Grub screw / seatpin / saddle in seatpin / stem in headtube!

    The worst was the seatpin itself in the frame, closely followed by the grub screw. What worked for me was to soak, regularly, and over a period of time with "Crack It", which is a very cold high pressure spray can which I picked up from the local motor factor.

    Then, I hammered a oversized Torx bolt (bought individually) from the same motor factor into the rounded grub screw allen head. This was really hammered in. Then, simply a 10mm socket on the end and a ratchet wrench to attempt to move it. I'd give it a nudge every so often and with repeated sprays and tugs on the wrench - it eventually gave way. In the end, once it had started to move, it came out pretty easily!

    The seatpin also got the same freezing treatment - this was an original alloy Vitus seatpost in an aluminium seattube. This was very tricky to remove and I could only move it very slightly left and right to begin with. A trip to my LBS gave me the second pair of strong hands that I needed to simply get it twisting with brute force. Eventually, I'd been able to twist it round several times, we could eventually work it out of the tube.

    The stem was again, the same as the seatpin - liberal use of GT-85 and the freezing spray. Eventually, a few twists of the stem against a wheel held between your legs and we got it to crack free and start moving. Once you've got even a tiny amount of movement, it will come out.

    I've now deleted the pics that I uploaded into another forum, so here's a link if you wanted to have a looksie...

    http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=264724&start=10

    Dead pleased to have everything freed up and released - what a pain in the backside!

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

TVT and Vitus 979 projects

Posted by Avatar for racingsnake1 @racingsnake1

Actions