No, it doesn't. Wheelspin is only one of the problems on a climb, keeping the front wheel on the ground is the other. Longer chainstays help with the latter, but never the former. As a corollary to our old friend maximal braking deceleration, maximal resistance to wheelspin is achieved when the front wheel is touching, but not pressing on, the ground. It's nearly always possible to move your body to keep the front wheel down, in fact the climbing attitude when the going gets especially tough usually results in far too much weight over the front, so shortening the back of the bike (or moving the front wheel forward, by adding top tube length and correspondingly reducing stem length) is generally desirable if wheelspin is your problem. Of course, it is so infrequently a problem (on a road bike, at least) that compromising everything else to prevent it is a poor bargain.
No, it doesn't. Wheelspin is only one of the problems on a climb, keeping the front wheel on the ground is the other. Longer chainstays help with the latter, but never the former. As a corollary to our old friend maximal braking deceleration, maximal resistance to wheelspin is achieved when the front wheel is touching, but not pressing on, the ground. It's nearly always possible to move your body to keep the front wheel down, in fact the climbing attitude when the going gets especially tough usually results in far too much weight over the front, so shortening the back of the bike (or moving the front wheel forward, by adding top tube length and correspondingly reducing stem length) is generally desirable if wheelspin is your problem. Of course, it is so infrequently a problem (on a road bike, at least) that compromising everything else to prevent it is a poor bargain.