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• #28
OK, so that's certainly one option, chase the threads, fit the Carrera BB and away I go.
I can't use the Carrera's spindle with the Pug's cups because the Carrera BB is fixed. But, looking at the two, the Pug's spindle is slightly longer, so the right length spindle should do as you say! In which case, I just need to buy a new spindle and the Pug's BB should do the trick :-D
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• #29
Ben, great news! I've never seen a BB beyond flush but what the hey, if it works!
I'd head straight to Fitzrovia except I couldn't get the Pug there without driving, so not really feasible. Don't fancy riding all that way with the frame over my chest.
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• #30
What do you mean by "the Carrera BB is fixed"?
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• #31
Sealed? The axle can't be removed
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• #32
Oh I see, it's a cartridge (rather than a loose bearing BB like the Pug's).
I'd get the threads chased and fit the Carrera's BB then.
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• #33
So far it looks pretty good! I wish I had the courage to build my own and learn all you're learning too.
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• #34
Still clicking, though not so badly! Will try tightening more. Though I'm thinking it could be the cheapo pedals...but that doesn't correlate with the clicking reduction.
Ben, great news! I've never seen a BB beyond flush but what the hey, if it works!
I'd head straight to Fitzrovia except I couldn't get the Pug there without driving, so not really feasible. Don't fancy riding all that way with the frame over my chest.
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• #35
Thanks Boogiemaster. I've really not done a lot to it beyond buying and fitting everything to make it function, e.g. brakes, cables, cranks, wheels, and this dreaded bottom bracket issue!
The learning is the fun part, I'd definitely recommend just throwing yourself into it and having a go.
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• #36
And the BB saga continues!
I popped into Cloud 9 Cycles today - just happened to pass by - and bought a new BB spindle, right size. Except that the only one they had, instead of having a threaded recess on either end to receive a crank bolt, had a threaded bolt on either end.
I'm assuming this therefore takes a special kind of crank nut to secure the cranks to the BB??
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• #37
Changing the spindle and keeping the existing BB cups is the best option.
Second best option is a threadless BB so you don't have to worry about cup threading ( which could be french, swiss or english on mid 80's Peugeot's).
Here are the crank nuts that you are after:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDTITE-COTERLESS-14MM-CRANK-NUT-NUTS-PAIR-PEDAL-ARM-08030-CYCLE-BOLT-SCREW-/310435630319?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item484767ccef#ht_1295wt_1163Any independent bike shop would charge you 50-75p for one of them.
Cheers
Vince
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• #38
They are ordinary nuts, but that design (as opposed to bolts) is usually found on cheaper models.
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• #39
...which could be french, swiss or english on mid 80's Peugeot's)...
We've already figured out that it's not French (left hand thread).
Peugeot used Swiss BB only briefly on non-UK models during the changeover to British BB, so the chances of finding one over here is very slim.
If the shell was Swiss threaded, the Carrera's cup would be loose in the shell, but it isn't.
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• #40
Cheers for the link Vince, that's exactly what I'm after.
Scilly Suffolk, ye I read that somewhere else too, that they're used on cheaper models. So what are the disadvantages? Shouldn't have a major impact on the bike should it? I'm only using it as a beater
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• #41
What's the rear wheel you've got on there? It would look nice to have matching wheels but I suppose on a beater that's a secondary concern.
I do like Peugeots, they had nice colour schemes. Had a nice penguin-coloured one until last year.
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• #42
What tool would you use to tighten those crank nuts?
I'm not actually sure what the rear wheel is, it's unmarked as far as I can see. It was given to me by a friend, so I'll ask him and get back to you. Definitely a secondary concern, matching tyre would be nice though.
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• #43
Thanks Boogiemaster. I've really not done a lot to it beyond buying and fitting everything to make it function, e.g. brakes, cables, cranks, wheels, and this dreaded bottom bracket issue!
The learning is the fun part, I'd definitely recommend just throwing yourself into it and having a go.
I'm so tempted but really don't know much about anything. Too new around these areas but I'm definitely interested in getting my own fixed gear soon. Money is an issue though, and I need to go and get myself properly measured too before I start buying stuff I like but that might simply not be suitable.
Oh, so much to think about and so little cash to waste in stupid mistakes. That's why I'm reading as much as I can at the moment. Getting informed by pros like you all in this forum is essential, and I'm loving it!
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• #44
Scilly Suffolk, ye I read that somewhere else too, that they're used on cheaper models. So what are the disadvantages? Shouldn't have a major impact on the bike should it? I'm only using it as a beater
No, it'll be fine.
It's a cheaper method of construction that results in a, marginally, weaker and less aesthetic design.
Practically, you won't notice the difference.
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• #45
What tool would you use to tighten those crank nuts?...
Just a regular socket.
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• #46
I'm so tempted but really don't know much about anything. Too new around these areas but I'm definitely interested in getting my own fixed gear soon. Money is an issue though, and I need to go and get myself properly measured too before I start buying stuff I like but that might simply not be suitable.
Oh, so much to think about and so little cash to waste in stupid mistakes. That's why I'm reading as much as I can at the moment. Getting informed by pros like you all in this forum is essential, and I'm loving it!
Getting your hands dirty really is the best way to learn; and don't be afraid of making mistakes.
Ask around for a knackered MTB, or get one off Gumtree for £20 and pull it apart. Then put it back together again.
the two websites I always recommend are Sheldon Brown and the Park Tools blog: between them they explain everything you need to know and what to do with it.
But there really is no substitute for hands on experience.
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• #47
Inspirational words my friend, and I was offered this very same morning a MTB for free (by the dude that looks after our building), which I will now gladly accept.
Thank you so much!
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• #48
Excellent start!
Make good use of the camera on your phone: plenty of snaps of the components in place and as you disassemble them and/or make notes, use sticky labels etc.
Buy good quality tools as and when you need them; cheap tools are a false economy: they don't last, damage the part you are working on and skin your knuckles (and usually all three).
Don't pull the whole bike apart to begin with: take a bit off, clean and (if needed) lube before replacing and making sure it works before moving on. The back brake is a good place to start.
Start a new thread and keep us updated with your progress.
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• #49
Thanks for the tips and suggestions Scilly. I shall do as you suggested and keep you (and anyone else interested) updated.
This is going to be so much fun!
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• #50
Yaaay Boogiemaster, so glad you're getting stuck in mate. It is a lot of fun, albeit slightly perplexing sometimes. There's nothing like the satisfaction of putting something together with your bare hands.
Still waiting on my crank nuts and pedals, then comes the really fun part of getting the chainline straight.
Ballache for BallPacker.
Fitzrovia Bicycles were incredibly helpful when I popped in Thursday evening, and in the past re sorting a 24" rear wheel and fitting a coaster brake.
Fixed (I think!) the clicking by tightening the fuck out of the adjustable cups, one side beyond flush which is apparently OK. If not sorted then a £30 BB needed. Again, Fitzrovia Bicycles v. helpful.