Its when you look out the window, and its shitty out, you only have an hour or so free, and your MTB is nice and clean hanging on the workroom wall.
Knowing that a minute with the hose pipe is all I'll need post ride. Is often the difference between jumping into my cycling gear, or fecking it off, and going for a run.
On the trail its no better than a well oiled, and tensioned chain as far as I can tell.
If you go this route, remember that the belt is wide, and that the beltring will need clearance to the chainstay.
You will also need a very nice chainline. So a rear hub with some adjustment room on the freehub i a good idea. I have a SS/trials hope hub that works well.
Also. Once you have a belt. You cant adjust length. So moving your slidding drop-outs back and forth for various extremes in tyres sizes would be out.
I've been doing the abuse-hose-abuse-hose cycle on mine for a year or so now. Still looks like new.
Its when you look out the window, and its shitty out, you only have an hour or so free, and your MTB is nice and clean hanging on the workroom wall.
Knowing that a minute with the hose pipe is all I'll need post ride. Is often the difference between jumping into my cycling gear, or fecking it off, and going for a run.
On the trail its no better than a well oiled, and tensioned chain as far as I can tell.
If you go this route, remember that the belt is wide, and that the beltring will need clearance to the chainstay.
You will also need a very nice chainline. So a rear hub with some adjustment room on the freehub i a good idea. I have a SS/trials hope hub that works well.
Also. Once you have a belt. You cant adjust length. So moving your slidding drop-outs back and forth for various extremes in tyres sizes would be out.
I've been doing the abuse-hose-abuse-hose cycle on mine for a year or so now. Still looks like new.