Proper leather shoes

As far as I know Loake are bog standard UK true-to-size. They are decent too, if you go with their proper benchmade in England line. They do plenty that seem to be made here but are pretty shoddily put together in the far east. I once had a look at some Loake L1 derbies, made in India, and they were ropey as fuck.

I have a pair of Loake 1880 'Chester' brogues that have lasted and aged well. They're currently back at Loake being resoled and tarted-up generally.

That said, the difference in quality between them and my Tricker's is really apparent. The leather on the Loakes is ok but not remotely approaching the Tricker's. Where the Loakes have creased and cracked (despite my utmost care and attention) the Tricker's just get better and better. Maybe it would be better to spend the money if you can and go the whole hog with a top drawer maker?

I'll have to look at Trickers. I've had several pairs of Loakes over the past few years (from 5th Ave Shoes and pediwear.co.uk) and all have been very comfortable and have 'aged' well - even with daily wear. One of their fittings/lasts fits my feet very well!

There was a story about Loakes in the Guardian ages ago where the story of a shoe was described - then, the leather was shipped to India (already cut?) to be treated and tanned and was then shipped back to the UK to be made into the shoe. Don't know if that's changed.