A lot of basic questions that can be easily answered with a bit of searching, but i'll help you with a few points:
Best to match hub width (over-lock-nut) to frame spacings, but steel frames can tolerate a few mm of difference, or can be cold-set to a new spacing.
Hubs can be re-spaced by removing the lock-nuts and adding or removing spacers (fat washers, often aluminium) between the nuts and cones. You might need to replace the axle too.
The 'nuts' holding the sprockets onto your flipflop hub are lockrings, they have a left-handed thread and are removed with a lockring tool. You then need a chainwhip to remove the right-hand threaded sprockets, but if your hub isn't part of a wheel it will be very hard to get them off. Rotating them against each other might destroy the hub before they shift.
If your frame has vertical dropouts, you'll need a chain tensioner to run singlespeed, and can't easily run fixed.
A lot of basic questions that can be easily answered with a bit of searching, but i'll help you with a few points:
Best to match hub width (over-lock-nut) to frame spacings, but steel frames can tolerate a few mm of difference, or can be cold-set to a new spacing.
Hubs can be re-spaced by removing the lock-nuts and adding or removing spacers (fat washers, often aluminium) between the nuts and cones. You might need to replace the axle too.
The 'nuts' holding the sprockets onto your flipflop hub are lockrings, they have a left-handed thread and are removed with a lockring tool. You then need a chainwhip to remove the right-hand threaded sprockets, but if your hub isn't part of a wheel it will be very hard to get them off. Rotating them against each other might destroy the hub before they shift.
If your frame has vertical dropouts, you'll need a chain tensioner to run singlespeed, and can't easily run fixed.