Strange bottom bracket

Could anyone tell me whether they've come across this type of bottom bracket before? If so, what type of bb will I need?

It seems as if the bottom bracket is sealed on one side. The bike is an old Raleigh - not sure of the year but here's a picture of the frame;

The BB axel is also longer on one side which also seems unusual;

Any help is much appreciated.

This was the normal type of bb in the dark ages
replace it with a sealed bb with the right length axle, although looking at pics of the frame the value of a new bb will be significantly more than the frame is worth
it is also possible that the threads in the frame are an old Raleigh standard, and getting the right bb might be a bit harder than going to a bike shop and buying one

Right but a sealed bottom bracket won't fit if one end of the shell is closed (as shown in the first picture)?

that is part of your bottom bracket, not part of the frame, you have to remove that first, and it is (or should be) left hand thread

That is a 26tpi Raleigh BB.
No replacements are available.
A threadless BB might work, but these are usually designed for 68mm shell widths.
Yours will probably be 71mm wide.

The best option is probably to regrease the current BB and put cottered cranks on
or buy another frame.

There's some info on the Sheldon Brown site: http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html

^ it's not necessarily 26tpi - I had a 1980 Raleigh Magnum and that was standard 24tpi. That said, since this bike has cottered cranks, it's 26tpi in my experience.

It probably isn't a 71mm shell - I think only the Raleigh Twenty used those. My girlfriend's 80s Caprice uses cottered cranks, 26tpi but 68mm shell.

You can get cotterless axles for 71mm shells; they're quite rare. You could face down a 71mm shell to 68mm and use a standard cotterless axle. Or, if you wanted to use a sealed BB, you could use a threadless bottom bracket.

Or, you could just use cottered cranks - they're not so bad once they're installed properly, and since they're usually made from steel they're extremely hard-wearing. Since this is a cheap frame, I would avoid spending unnecessary money on it and just use cottered cranks - the cheapest option.

If you do want to remove the cup, you can try to unscrew it with a big adjustable spanner. Sometimes they come off with a spanner, sometimes you need to use a vice, sometimes you need to use the proper tool (i.e. take it to a shop). Soak it in plusgas first.

use an adjustable spanner but also a very thick bolt and nut(and possibly a washer) to hold the spanner against the bb cup or it will just keep slipping. hit the end of the spanner with a mallet, anticlockwise for the left cup to loosen, clockwise for the right cup

theres also a tool for those bb's made by park tool, I have one but cant remember if it was cheap, only useful if you are gonna work on a few more of those old bikes

The shell is 68mm but i'm not too sure of the threading yet. I'm going to have a go at removing it tomorrow with the proper tool they make for this type of bb. If I can't find a cheap replacement the frame will have to go!

The axle is long on one side because it needs to provide clearance for the chainrings (otherwise they'd scrape the chainstay).

^^^ beware, cottered BB's come in many lengths and flavours.
I bought two used ones from a parts shop thinking they would be fine, turns out neither were any good as the machined area was in the wrong place = cranks wouldn't fit. So got more cranks, and again, no. Cottered fails.

The shell is 68mm but i'm not too sure of the threading yet. I'm going to have a go at removing it tomorrow with the proper tool they make for this type of bb. If I can't find a cheap replacement the frame will have to go!

Don't bother trying to take it out mate. Just clean it up and put it back together with new 1/4" bearings. (11 on each side)

get a cotterless axle here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Cotterless-Crank-Axle-3A-3L-3P-3R-3S-3T-3SS-3U-5S-5SS-/200739154176?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item746d854711

decipher the codes and measurements here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

The shell is 68mm...

Well there you go - don't bother taking it out, just re-build it with a cheap cotterless axle as posted above. A new sealed BB is probably worth more than the frame.

Re: Old Raleigh - on the chainset side, which way does the cup unscrew?. I have been trying to unscrew it clockwise, am I back to front??

Any advice much appreciated...

Jo 90: Raleigh's have lefthand thread on the driveside, normal thread on the non-driveside. So you're doing it right.

Cheers - its not shifting and I was beginning to have doubts.....

This type of cup is well known for being difficult to remove due to the edge which you put the spanner on being so damn thin. When combined with the fact they are often painted over and rusted in due to age, it makes it more than likely you will need some burly tools and a blowtorch to shift it.

big hammer and old screwdriver are your friends

big hammer and old screwdriver are your friends
Aye! take em to the pub ;-)

Massive fuck off nut and bolt with washers(m12 or 14) through the hole, tighten against the cup. This allows you to use the bolt head to turn instead of the thin bit on the cup. Simples, nut and bolt will cost about 50p.
Works every single time in my experience. Also, soak the bb area in plusgas or jizer to loosen things up a bit.

big hammer and old screwdriver are your friends

+1

vice.

vicevicevicevice.

big fuck off record #3 with nice sharp new jaws.
mmmmmm.

Have been soaking it since Sat so will give it a belt tonight and see what happens.

If nothing else I'll give it a damn good thrashing !!!