i've had to move them (along with the hubs etc. ) elsewhere online for sale soley now on a popular auction site - due to LFGSS policies on the selling of separate but identical multiples of items appearing to be the sale of the same item (even when this is not the case) on two sites.
anyway after a summer hiatus, all will be resumed early mid july.
in the meantime check your chainline and check all your mating faces are degreased and the nuts are tight. the insertion of a beefy spring washer (or soft washer like brass or whatever) may help too as it will help to keep the tension you might be losing on those nuts. increase surface area of lockntus and nut flanges if you can to give more grip to the mating faces. i often use a cheap axle nut as a lock nut (with the flange facing out to the dropout inner face) as it spreads load and should increase friction , cheap BMX nuts are best for this - without any spinning captive washer and with serrated teeth.
i've had to move them (along with the hubs etc. ) elsewhere online for sale soley now on a popular auction site - due to LFGSS policies on the selling of separate but identical multiples of items appearing to be the sale of the same item (even when this is not the case) on two sites.
anyway after a summer hiatus, all will be resumed early mid july.
in the meantime check your chainline and check all your mating faces are degreased and the nuts are tight. the insertion of a beefy spring washer (or soft washer like brass or whatever) may help too as it will help to keep the tension you might be losing on those nuts. increase surface area of lockntus and nut flanges if you can to give more grip to the mating faces. i often use a cheap axle nut as a lock nut (with the flange facing out to the dropout inner face) as it spreads load and should increase friction , cheap BMX nuts are best for this - without any spinning captive washer and with serrated teeth.
like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10MM-FLANGED-WHEEL-NUT-PAIR-CYCLES-BIKES-BMX-ETC-/200665392605#ht_500wt_922