Getting decent power out of long drop front calliper brakes

I've got a brooklyn cluster fork that requires a long drop calliper. I've tried filling out a little of the end of my Dia Comp 101 regular drop calliper for the pads to reach - They reach ok and it looks fine to me, but the stopping power is awful.

I've also switched pads to softer compound aztec ones and it's still not any better than the stock pads. I appreciate this may seem like a dumb idea, but the amount i filed away was pretty small.

It's also worth mentioning that I've tried a rear 101 caliper on the back. The action is fine but it's still rubbish at stopping. Is it just these brakes?

Are long drop callipers any good, or are they just going to be as weak? Do they need v-brake style levers or anything, tips, advice etc... appreciated.

posted recently about a dia compe long drop, uts to find it, only 12 quid and works fine with road (tt) levers pull ratio thingy.

should mention, I'm running riser bars, so need to be good to go with flat bar levers

There's nothing wrong with 101 calipers - dodgy braking will be an installation problem:

1. Are you using levers with the correct cable-pull ratio?
   
2. Are you using new cables, with no sharp bends, ends filed flat and caps installed?
   
3. Are your pads contacting the rim at the right angle?
   
4. Are your rims free of dirt and road grime?
   
   

If you need longer drop brakes, Alhonga do a dual-pivot up to 73mm. I've used them on an old touring frame and they were very good even with the stock pads. More flexible and less modular than a road brake like, but they pulled up the bike just as fast.

Try Kool Stop Salmon pads if they are still weak after tweaking. See Sheldon Brown.

should mention, I'm running riser bars, so need to be good to go with flat bar levers

be sure to check pull ratio then, as mentioned in another reply.

Thanks for the feedback.

So how do i know if the pull ratio is correct? I'm using old canti levers at the moment and have tried a dia comp tech 77 bmx lever. The action feels fine, new cables, clean rims, good contact on the blocks. The lever pulls back and engages mid stroke, where you'd expect, there's just no actual bite power.

Running Halo Aerorage wheels, purchased new with build.

Canti levers and BMX levers should all pull the same as a drop bar lever.

Is the caliper free and moving well when cable disconnected?

Thanks for the feedback.

Running Halo Aerorage wheels, purchased new with build.

Machined braking surface?

Machined braking surface?

Actually all aerorage have machined surface I belive.

I had the same problem with some calipers and levers transferred from an old dawes. Replaced the cable and outer and it fixed the problem.

As above had this issue with the wife's bike, bad responsiveness terrible braking, in the end made sure outer housing was long enough to produce a decent braking action and also most importantly I found, put a few drops of oil (used chain lube) inside the outer housing and worked the cable back and forth before reattaching to brake calipers..much better now!

(used chain lube) !

Not new?!

put a few drops of oil (used chain lube) inside the outer housing

Mmmmnnn you shouldn't really need to do this. If your cables are sticky, replace them. Good quality modern cables have low-friction liners so they don't need any lubrication - adding oil just drags grit and grime up into them so they wear out even faster.

A two-pack of Shimano 105 brake cable with inner/outer/nipple/cap is what, twelve quid? Not much point in being a cheapskate about it!

levers play an important part too, a cheap one like the Sora will feel spongy and not quite powerful whether a 105 levers felt very powerful.

^ I always run some lithium grease along cables before fitting, was taught that on the Parktool weekend workshop warrior course, or whatever it's called.

I do that too. Thumb and forefinger together with a blob, then run the cable through.

hi, jagwire racer or rip chord cables with XLC cartridge pads , sorted , 25 years as a bike mechanic and i have not felt better from any caliper brakes set ups, even on very long drop brakes , its actually a bit too powerful at first for some folks. the pads have a fairly short lifespan but are very cheap and dont wear rims out like some do.

If cables are a bit sticky, before lubing them it's worth giving them a quick rub down with some sandpaper. They'll shine like new and work like new. Recycling existing materials is so much better than throwing out and buying new. Cheaper too.

Not sure about the grease option. If the bike isn't used for a long time, grease can harden up (often the cause of trigger shifters not working), so I'd recommend a medium thickness oil.

Are long drop callipers any good, or are they just going to be as weak? Do they need v-brake style levers or anything, tips, advice etc... appreciated.

V-brake levers pull more cable less hard. To get more brake force you'd need the opposite: levers that pull less cable with more force. When the lever stops solidly as the pads touch the rim, that's the sign of weak brakes. Strong brakes feel softer at the lever because they have the force to squash the pads against the rim.

The further you move the pads from the brake's pivots, the lower the brake force will be. Longer drop brakes should be designed to compensate for this by putting the cable stops further from the pivots too, so; yes you may get better results from brakes that let you mount pads nearer the top of their slots.

Try Kool Stop Salmon pads if they are still weak after tweaking. See Sheldon Brown.

+1 they make a significant difference.
Halt! Gooey pads are good too and a bit cheaper. Not tried XLC yet.

If cables are a bit sticky, before lubing them it's worth giving them a quick rub down with some sandpaper. They'll shine like new and work like new. Recycling existing materials is so much better than throwing out and buying new. Cheaper too.

Not sure about the grease option. If the bike isn't used for a long time, grease can harden up (often the cause of trigger shifters not working), so I'd recommend a medium thickness oil.

Rock N Roll 'cable magic' lube deserves its name in my opinion.