135 hub in a 120 frame?

Apart from the halo hubs, quite agree (system EX generic brand are plenty), but it's nice to have a hubs that you know indefintely that'll last for age, like phils.

Kerley: Of all the examples you could pick to defend cheap hubs you pick the one that when you tighten the cog and lockring it crushes the bearings. the rear halo is an awful hub.

The point of expensive hubs, like expensive anything is superior build quality, superior ethics of labour (in some cases - like phil), superior longevity, superior bearings when there, superior design and testing, superior seals and greeses (when used), superior reduction of friction, Superior warranty superior everything. And given you can totaly feel the difference between Formula (the best under £100 hub) and something like Phil the why the hell not buy one?

And how many people do you know have two Phils and the rest of the bike is utter crap?

I'm sorry, I just don't understand an ideological defence of mediocrity.
(not to say that all expensive hubs are better then formulas (many aren't).

Not defending mediocrity, just pointing out that it is a bit pointless to have a pair of hubs that total half the price of the whole bike.
The OP was asking about a hub which is £40 and YOU suggested Phil's which would have presumably been of much higher spec than rest of bike otherwise they wouldn't be looking at £40 hubs!

And you may think you notice the difference, but put a good quality bearing in a cheap hub and I know full well you would not know what hub you were riding in a blind test.

Guess I must have the bought the lucky pair of Halo hubs as mine get a hard time (on and off road) and have been faultless so far but granted I may not be saying that in a years time :-)

Kerley kinda spot on about not being able to tell the difference between a system EX hubs and a phils, especially if you use your bike for transport in general, however, I went for phils because I want to build a wheels that'll last as long as possible, so in my mind, a phils hubs is a good long term investment than a system ex hubs hwever reliable they are.

Although idon't really care if I use expensive hubs on cheap frame, I done it before.

Yeah, I get the long term investment point. Although no point for me personally as I change bikes/parts with the weather. Maybe if I got Phil's I would at least keep them/form some sort of emotional attachment...

MrWheeler Wrote: 135 hub in a 120 frame?

Roryeaglestone wrote:
I run exactly the set up you're talking about on a 135spaced frame - it's also worth thinking about the fact that on a 68mm shell BB you'll need to achieve a 53mm chainline for the bolt on. as an example that's a sugino 75 with a 125 (exist?) taper bb. That'll look shit and be shit. There's a reason 135 frames tend to have 73mm bb shells.

Me: I have a good 'ol American old school tank : 1971 Schwinn Sport Tourer that I bought new and am still riding it (68mm bottom bracket)

Qt: MrWheeler .. did you spread from 120 to 135mm??? Anybody here do that? I'm currently cold setting the rear, and have it spread from 120mm to 128mm using pipe clamps to do the spread ... nice and even. Had to spread the rear to 155mm for 1/2 day... I used pipe clamps at the brake block/fender holder cross tube and near the seat tube so stress wouldin't be applied to the weld joints Originally wanted just to go to 130mm ... now I'm thinking of going to 135mm. Now I read what Roryeaglestone wrote about the bottom bracket 68mm versus 73mm. Are there problems with the chain line?

Heading toward 135mm figuring the extra pipe clamps will relieve any bending stresses caused ... I guess I may have to spread the rear up to 160mm/170mm to get it to spring back to 135mm . ... Anyone with experience here??? Thanks!

Will

I did this with a raliegh 501 frame with pressed dropouts. But this was moving 126mm to 135mm and the frame was very flexy. The dropout snapped.