Removing braze-ons

I liked the blowtorch idea (seamed neater), so I bought myself one of these: http://www.turboflame.co.uk/

But despite its claims of being able to reach 1300 C, it did nothing except burn of a little bit of the paint.

Just thought I'd share.

You need one of these: £14.99 from B&Q
http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/TORCHES/PROFESSIONALTORCHES/tabid/230/ctl/Detail/mid/1009/xmid/6937/xmfid/3/Default.aspx

And some of this: £15 from B&Q
http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/FUEL/tabid/212/ctl/Detail/mid/1148/xmid/6910/xmfid/3/Default.aspx

Cheers Brucy!

why bother?

if there are braze-ons then it's not a track frame, and if you're not going to get a paint job....

my bike is covered in unused braze-ons

I spend the time I've saved not grinding them off by doing other things, like masturbating over frames without braze-ons.

fixed

also, is it aluminium or steel this rame? does it make a difference? can heating up aluminium with a blowtorch weaken the structure?

Don't heat up aluminium with a blowtorch.

can heating up aluminium with a blowtorch weaken the structure?

I thought that was the point?

junoir hacksaw from your friendly local pound shop or go to B and Q and get the paint while your there. if you get a good one you'll be able mount the blade sideways. the cut em off nice and easy. quick file and plasti cote paint to hide it. easy.

Best so far.

Just saw it off by hand (more controll unless you are retarded) and gently file down. You cannot see or feel I ever had braze ons on my old bike.

Easiest method (only one I've tried and it works): chisel and hammer. Get the chisel placed against the braze on, longitudinally (in line with the top tube), and then get it as parallel with the top tube as possible (i.e. so you are tapping left/right, not down against the tube) and tap it with a hammer. 4-5 maximum medium strenght whacks should do it (I love hard whack myself, but not in this situation).

It is very important to ensure the chisel is being tapped against the braze, and not downward against the top tube, or you'll dent the tube. Which I did on my first attempt. But then tidied with car body filler before rattle canning (this was not my #1 bike btw don't destroy a nice frame in the attempt)...

fixed

also, is it aluminium or steel this rame? does it make a difference? can heating up aluminium with a blowtorch weaken the structure?

Why are you replying to something I said 3 1/2 years ago?

You cretin.

ha fair point... it was late - to be fair though it's cyclotron3k that dredged it up.

Also, I can never resist a masturbation joke...

Can someone add me to the list
120mm black international double capped x2
120mm black international single capped x3

No.

right i have a 1954 claud butler fillet brazed jubilee frame set im restoring for re-sale should i remove all the braze ons and cable guides or leave them on?

Leave them on.

Leave them on.

No, don't remove them

that answers it. i didnt want to as its a rare frame set, what colour would suit it do you recon?

Baby blue.

fit a brake and use them...
doing it properly will be time consuming, using power tools one slip and you'll be through the top tube in no time.. you could take it to someone who does frame repairs and they can slap paint on it too.

Right, I've got a ratty old TT frame which I'm going to remove the brazeons from, as there are shed loads of them and they all look shit, almost like they were added on afterwards!

I was planning on using a junior hacksaw, then filing and sanding to finish... on inspecting the frame, the tubes are pretty thin. Is the job really tricky?

is there a way a heat them up so the braze melts and then remove them? would that be a better techniqce, or shall I just stick with my original idea and take care...?

Go with your original plan, the worst you can do if you slip with the file is remove a bit of paint. If you stick some masking tape around the braze on it'll make it even safer.

I'm not worried about the paint, going to start fresh on that. More concerned about going through or dinging the tube... take it that isn't likely?

Nope. it'll take a couple of pushes to get through the paint before you even start on the metal.

Cheers oz.

I recently bought a frame off sheathy and it came with the braze-on for a front mech. I want to remove this so I can put on my campag front mech (clamp) on. But it seems to be held by rivets and I know that rivets can be drilled out but I'm not sure whether it's safe to drill these out. The frame is 7005 aluminium triple butted. The pics can be viewed here.