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• #27
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330697600019#ht_591wt_1110
Any idea why the description here specifically says these are unsuitably for singlespeed freewheels?
dishing of the wheel for gears would mean the chain line would be out with a single speed freewheel on it. Not a massive issue, as you can run a wonky chain line, but it'd be much better to get a suitable wheelset.
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• #28
presumably i could get the wheel re-dished then? Just found an old 700c wheel which i didnt think I had, it's a front unfortunately, so not much good for sizing the frame, but i held it roughly in position and i'm now fairly confident there's enough room. Fits in the forks with a nice tight clearance at the top, about 4 mm ;)
New bottom bracket arrived today, which fitted nicely, but for the fact that the threads inside the frame seem to have come close to being non existant, so no real idea how long they'll last before they rip out and i'm looking for a new frame :(
On the plus side the silver cranks look pretty neat against the black frame. Pictures in a minute!
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• #29
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• #30
Get the grinder out and take that inner ring off!!!!!
I run 52-20, about 70gi, I can get up 16% hills, and I'm not amazing on a bike.
Just check you've got enough width to run 26" wheels, and what you doing about brakes???
+1
Though inner ring on that might unbolt.
Its not going to be the stiffest crankset, but you could do worse.
27" = 630mm
700c (known as 28" or 29" even though its nothing like) = 622mm
650c (26") = 612mm (?) -
• #31
Mine weren't bolts, and grindy grindy is loads more fun ;)
Mine skids fine, with a seriously shite chain line - 130mm hub, pull the frame apart to get it in cos there 126 spacing with a cog screwed onto the freewheel threads
Would it be possible to put a 120mm hub on and just squeeze the frame as you tighten the hub up?
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• #32
I have the same cranks and i am planning on using them for my fixed until i get some sugino 75s. I used a drill on the back of the rivets to remove the granny ring, looks much nicer.
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• #33
Well i'm tempted to leave it for a little additional stiffness. Settled on 700c now, the clearances look like they'll be pretty awesome! Debating purchasing a set of halo twin rail couriers for the tyres, anyone have any experience of them? Good? Bad?
And what is the original spacing for the rear dropouts? I have no idea whether or not mine has been stretched out or squashed in at any point in its life...
Raleighracer, can't you adjust the spacers in your hub to get the correct chainline/width?
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• #34
Forks back to bare metal, thinking clear lacquer...
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• #35
Rear spacing is 126mm,
And possibly, but then I'd need to re-dish the wheel :/
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• #36
Just been offered a wheelset for £50, my only concern is that the rear hub is flip flop, how does one adjust chainline when you wish to use cogs on both sides of the hub? As it obviously rules out re-spacing the hub and re-dishing the wheel, as by making one side correct in this manner the oher side would surely be thrown even further out of alignment?
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• #37
no. flip flop hub is what you want for singlespeed. they are centered between the drop outs. a wheel for a screw on cassette will be dished towards the non drive side of the wheel to accommodate the size of a screw on freewheel.
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• #38
Does this mean the chainline is guarunteed to be correct?
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• #39
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• #40
No chain line won't be right with a single speed wheelset
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• #41
Does this mean the chainline is guarunteed to be correct?
no, it doesn't mean its guarenteed to be correct, that will be down to your bottom bracket length and crank type. However, if you get a rear wheel that is dished for a screw on gear block then the chain line is guaranteed to be off. So, buy a rear wheel that is designed to be used with a singlespeed freewheel and the cranks you already have and you should be fine. Perfect chainline is not a necessity as already discussed, though it's nice when you can get it.
That wheelset you've been offered: find out if it's sealed or loose ball bearing hubs, sealed is better. I assume they're these NO LOGO White Single Speed & Fixed 700c Wheels Set & Tyre: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Leisure £100 new so don't pay more than about £50-£60 pending condition. As long as they run smooth they should be fine until you can afford something better. If you can wait, keep your eye on classifieds.
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• #42
Good to see another Pursuit. Do you know what year it is? Have you owned it from new?
I'm guessing 700's are fine on these, right? I only have a basic understanding of older bikes, and i wanted Fulcrum Racing 7's on it.
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• #43
Fred, those are indeed the ones, just picked them up, paid £50, they run true and free so i'm reasonably happy, and just judging by eye the chainline also looks very close to being spot on.
Tommy, I haven't owned it from new, it was given to me in a poor state, I haven't a clue what year, but the serial number is still readable if it would mean anything to you?
Shall post pictures in a minute :)
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• #44
Yeah, had to do a lot of research on mine, got mine down to the month and year, and which factory it was made in. Weird thing with it though, i've never known the serial number to be at the top of the seat post tube, only under the BB.
Post me a number, and i'l drop the links in, and info :)
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• #45
8113091, found at the bottom of the seat post tube, just above the bb
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• #46
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• #47
Was there not 2 letters at the beginning of that number series?
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• #48
I also have 63119 under the bb, but no letters in evidence anywhere...
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• #49
Hmm that's really weird. You're UK, right?
Mine starts with NP (Nottingham factory, November), then 6 digits.
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• #50
I am indeed in the uk, though i suspect mine may be significantly younger than a lot of pursuits, i'll post some pictues of it in it's original guise later if that'd be any help with dating...
I've got an rc brake of a bianchi, tis fine, the original also worked fine. Frames a 59, 5cm to big, but I didn't know about road bike fitment back then