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• #52
How about branding it?
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• #53
How about branding it?
Genius! Not sure how comfortable I feel about potentially setting it on fire though.
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• #54
That's looking very cool! Is the varnish gonna be really glossy or matte?
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• #55
That's looking very cool! Is the varnish gonna be really glossy or matte?
It's a new bike so it HAS to be very shiny and glossy.
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• #56
I realise I won't change your opinion and since it's your bike and you can do whatever you want with it, that's fine :)
However, in my opinion with a really glossy finish it stops looking like wood and just ends up kind of plastic-like instead, which is a shame considering the great work you've done.
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• #57
No it would look like polished wood, just look at the Renovo...thats glossy, and very nice
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• #58
Following on from Ed's comment a while ago. What advice does anyone have for affordable ways of reducing weight by chosing the right components?... and, no, I'm not just going to keep sanding to cut down on weight!
I've currently got Sugino 75 cranks, stronglight chainring, v heavy wheels with DP18 rims on Quando hubs, full carbon chinese noname forks, planet X alu drops (don't know the model) and I don't have a seat or seatpost yet.
The first choice has to be wheels, right? I've been on the lookout for a decent lighter replacement in the classifieds but haven't seen anything that tickles my fancy. Any recommendations?
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• #59
No it would look like polished wood, just look at the Renovo...thats glossy, and very nice
We'll have to respectfully disagree on that then :)
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• #60
I've stalled recently. It's all glued up, sanded and sanded again. Looks bloody great so I'm really happy. All it needs is varnishing. I want to put a logo on the down tube and have spent ages trying different techniques which have all failed. So far I've tried printing onto spring roll rice paper and laying onto epoxy. That went completely clear with the black texy showing through nicely but was too thick and didn't wrap around a curve very easily. I tried thinner rice paper which didn't go clear and i tried thin white tissue paper which nearly went clear but not quite. I also tried iron on transfer paper which went on to the wood nicely but then the epoxy sealing layer didn't go through the clear bits of the iron on patch so the wood came out lighter under the logo and looked shit. It was also really hard to iron on a curved surface without ruining the logo.
My next test is going to be: Seal the wood with epoxy, apply the printed logo on waterslide decal paper and seal over the top. I'm hoping this will work as i spent a week trying to get hold of the bloody rice paper.... and that was the worst of the lot!
Any more suggestions for getting a text logo onto a curved wooden surface that will then be sealed with epoxy and varnish? I could stencil and paint it but I thought printing would give me a crisper outline.
Is the downtube too shaped for a custom sized rubber stamp?
Personally I struggle to think of a downtube graphics style that would look good. There is already so much of interest to look at.
I love the 'Prototype' (or BMW as you say) style roundel on the chainstay. I'd be tempted to leave just that on the bike and incorporate that into the off-bike branding. You could also get small roundels stickers of that style printed onto the wheel rims (oposite the valve), or seatpost.
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• #61
I've currently got Sugino 75 cranks, stronglight chainring, v heavy wheels with DP18 rims on Quando hubs, full carbon chinese noname forks, planet X alu drops (don't know the model) and I don't have a seat or seatpost yet.
The first choice has to be wheels, right? I've been on the lookout for a decent lighter replacement in the classifieds but haven't seen anything that tickles my fancy. Any recommendations?
Campagnolo OMEGA V black 24h tubs from Campyoldy with some low flange track hubs such as Miche and double butted spokes and Vittoria Rally tyres.
Probably the cheapest was to classy looking and lightweight wheels.
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• #62
Draw the design on in pencil and use a soldering iron (and a friend with a steady hand if you don't have one) to burn it into the wood
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• #63
Tribal flames?
;-)
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• #64
Hm, wouldnt touch a heep of work like that with a soldering iron. Why have any signs on it at all really? I think i would prefer a clean look. A glossy finish on wood reminds me of boat somehow. A matte finish on wood has a more natural feel to it, but its your choice of course.
For the wheels id recommend wooden rims. You have shown to be good in wood.
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• #65
for the wheels, i'd go for a sensible option like 32h open pros on some sturdy hubs - gran compe or phils or goldtecs. In no particular order.
Will you build it up fixed or single speed?
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• #66
Here's a couple of photos to stoke the gloss vs matte debate. Just applied the first coat of epoxy finish. It needs to be fully rubbed down before a second coat of epoxy and 3 coats of varnish. By the end it will have a flawless finish, not the slightly uneven finish in the photos. The Wenge has gone black and has almost lost the colour of the grain, which is a shame, but was expected. The Bubinga outer layer looks fantastic though.
Need to get on with it as i've got some more busy weekends coming up and don't want this to take for ever (read - my parents are getting tired of me turning up every couple of weeks to use their tools and turn their house into a workshop)
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• #67
You could engrave the head tube badge with a bit if care?
Watch this space
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• #68
amazing. subscribed
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• #69
We'll have to respectfully disagree on that then :)
Agree to disagree
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• #70
For the wheels , H+sons TB-14 rims look super sweet, I have some on my track frame and love them, the polished silver looks great too and won't distract from the looks of the frame. They're laced to goldtec's which are equally great. Highly recommend these If you want the classic shallow rim look!
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• #71
An engraved aluminium plate, then routered in might be cool. epoxy under and over ?
Just an idea.
Looks truly smashing this.
I was just pondering, how on earth would you lock it up ? (scratches etc.)
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• #72
An engraved aluminium plate, then routered in might be cool. epoxy under and over ?
I've been playing with some of the wood offcuts that I've got left over. I'm going to stick it on after I've finished the frame. Think it should come out quite interesting.
I was just pondering, how on earth would you lock it up ? (scratches etc.)
I've thought that too. I hate to admit it but it may be a call for a more matte finish (ArtherFrayn looks smug) as small scratches wouldnt show quite as much. The varnish is a tough polyurethane varnish but nothing like as tough as powdercoating. The beauty is that because I've made it myself any scratches will just need a wipe of varnish and a quick rub down to be back to new again.
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• #73
thought about screen printing the decals? you could make a one-off screen and print with tinted epoxy.
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• #74
After weeks of neglect, the wait is almost over. First build up this evening and I can't deny that I'm feeling rather smug. Looking like a real bike now, and not a bad one at that. First ride and better photos to come on Sunday.
I bought a gold chain for it which never even came out of the packaging. What was I thinking?
And the head badge is half finished but needs some more time.
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• #75
One more photo
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I went to Bespoked Bristol a couple of weeks ago and there was a stand for Flat Pack Frames and also Boocycles (not THE Boo Bicycles from the US). I thought they were both dissappointing and would expect more from a commercial operation. There was also an Axalko frame outside which looked fantastic but i didn't really get a chance to look at it properly.