I never ever bother with bio detergent. If work in a sewer and your clothes get properly filthy then fine, but non-bio is fine for a bit of mud or B.O.
SP, without wanting to start a separate Good Housekeeping thread, bio and non-bio do exactly the same thing, just in different ways.
Bio relies on the enzyme action at lower temperatures. The 'bio' name refers to the biological action, but is also manglerized into the eco-marketing because you only need to wash at an energy-saving 30º. Any higher than 40º and the bio element is denatured and won't actually work.
A non-bio you can whack the temp right up to get rid of tough stains (boil it up for a lycra soup if you must) and it will keep working. It's just not seen as the done thing in the all-caring 21st Century. Or something.
Needless to say, don't boil your merino. The holes will be the least of your worries. I stick my black baselayers in a mixed load at 40º standard, non-bio, no softeners, wool wash, sprinkles or flake, and I've never had a problem (apart from the time I learned the expensive way about Bio washing powder).
SP, without wanting to start a separate Good Housekeeping thread, bio and non-bio do exactly the same thing, just in different ways.
Bio relies on the enzyme action at lower temperatures. The 'bio' name refers to the biological action, but is also manglerized into the eco-marketing because you only need to wash at an energy-saving 30º. Any higher than 40º and the bio element is denatured and won't actually work.
A non-bio you can whack the temp right up to get rid of tough stains (boil it up for a lycra soup if you must) and it will keep working. It's just not seen as the done thing in the all-caring 21st Century. Or something.
Needless to say, don't boil your merino. The holes will be the least of your worries. I stick my black baselayers in a mixed load at 40º standard, non-bio, no softeners, wool wash, sprinkles or flake, and I've never had a problem (apart from the time I learned the expensive way about Bio washing powder).
Lesson over.