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• #1102
i think it is just one solid tube and the cable should just shoot through nice and easy
or maybe i just got lucky the first time i tried -
• #1103
Thanks. It seems that the hole at one end of the tube was blocked, and so I couldn't work out how to get the brake wire through.
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• #1104
Yes, AA -Special has a solid tube soldered through the t/t.
Maybe it's stuck.
Try to open it with a metal rod, e.g spoke or, even better. welding rod.
I remembert that these tubes were blocked sometimes after shot blasting. Gazelle used to try to unblock with a welding/brazing rod fitted into a drillng machine and "drilling"/ pushing it though.
Maybe some WD40 will do the job as well. -
• #1105
full c record aa special on ebay
again going for a high price non ? buy it now of £1,500 ish -
• #1106
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• #1107
^ ^
Too bad that it doesn't have the original paint job and decals.
Makes it an expensive group set.^
Repaired 1st generation AA-Super.
Used to have a wishbone. -
• #1108
This is nice!
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• #1109
Yes, very nice.
I remember when it was made and used.
This particular bike (or one of the very rare similar bikes) was on MP recently.
See: http://www.lfgss.com/post2211295-971.htmlRoad version of this bike (also for Mieke Havik) was used by Karel van Loenen for his wereldduurrecord attempt. Couldn't ind the original clip. See (second 28 - 40): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjxd6NUZg1g
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• #1110
This is my Champion Mondial AB from 1988, I've only just built it up with parts that I had available, it would be nice to have components of the time but either way it's a cracking bike!
1 Attachment
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• #1111
I got a Gazelle Champion Mondial AB-Frame today - on the chainstay next to where it says 'AB-Frame' it also says 'TED HOF H. H. WAARD'. I googled it and couldn't find anything that was overtly relevant - is this just some venerable Dutch dude's personalisation, or is it something to do with Gazelle?
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• #1112
It's probably the LBS where the bike was sold. H.H. Waard is short for Heerhugowaard, a town in the Netherlands. A quick google shows the shop still exists, although under a slightly different name: http://www.tedhoftweewielers.nl/
They still seem to sell Gazelle road bikes.
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• #1113
Awesome find, thanks very much!
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• #1114
This thing here is pretty awesome! Is that a frame developed by Gazelle?
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• #1115
Some rare gazelle's showing up on MarktPlaats, nice one^
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• #1116
This thing here is pretty awesome! Is that a frame painted and stickered by Gazelle?
.
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• #1117
Ahh.. thought so
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• #1118
Still an awesome monocoque frame :)
It is a Hotta frame.
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• #1119
Would anyone happen to know where I could get a seatpost binder bolt for my 90s champion mondial?
I've tried sugino and campag with no luck, the head on these seem to be too large.
Any ideas? -
• #1120
I have a couple of diffrent bolts, especially for Gazelle.
End 1980s and begin 1990 they've changed seat lugs with proprietary bolts too often.
Can you make a sketch how it must look like and some dimensions.
Measure the lug (ears) or the old bolt.
Maybe send me a PM. -
• #1121
I have a couple of diffrent bolts, especially for Gazelle.
End 1980s and begin 1990 they've changed seat lugs with proprietary bolts too often.
Can you make a sketch how it must look like and some dimensions.
Measure the lug (ears) or the old bolt.
Maybe send me a PM.Hi DC thanks for the reply.
Well the clearence holes in the lug are 10mm diameter and about 4mm deep, the total lug width is 35mm.
If I cant find the old bolt to measure I'll post up a picture of the lug perhaps.
Cheers. -
• #1122
I have been eyeballing champion mondial frames (and monitoring this tread) for a while, and recently found an abandoned (wrecked rear wheel) A-frame. Knew about the better tubing compared to my own bikes, grabbed a functional rear wheel to collect it and rode it home.
I have two bikes at the moment, one ss with fenders and laidback setup, as a bad weather/groceries bike, and one fg with a more agressive setup, as main ride. Both are the same brand, and as i'm a brand-nazi, I'd like to end up with 2 champion mondials, one fendered and one which feels alot faster/twitchier.
So when i was riding my newfound A-frame home, i noticed that the geo was really very laidback, might be due to a too low seat/too high bars. As i heard that the geometry (except wheelbase) doesn't change all that from the more touring-oriented A-frame to the tightest of super-AA's, i was wondering, is it even possible to get a fast-feeling, kind-of twitchy setup on any sort of champion mondial?
Thanks -
• #1123
I'd imagine an AA Super with the indented seat tube to shorten the wheelbase is the most agile Champion Mondial.
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• #1124
^
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• #1125
I have been eyeballing champion mondial frames (and monitoring this tread) for a while, and recently found an abandoned (wrecked rear wheel) A-frame. Knew about the better tubing compared to my own bikes, grabbed a functional rear wheel to collect it and rode it home.
I have two bikes at the moment, one ss with fenders and laidback setup, as a bad weather/groceries bike, and one fg with a more agressive setup, as main ride. Both are the same brand, and as i'm a brand-nazi, I'd like to end up with 2 champion mondials, one fendered and one which feels alot faster/twitchier.
So when i was riding my newfound A-frame home, i noticed that the geo was really very laidback, might be due to a too low seat/too high bars. As i heard that the geometry (except wheelbase) doesn't change all that from the more touring-oriented A-frame to the tightest of super-AA's, i was wondering, is it even possible to get a fast-feeling, kind-of twitchy setup on any sort of champion mondial?
ThanksA-frames and Semi Race frames from late 1980s onwards has a different geometry, same as "Randonneur". Indeed, very laid back with 72 - 72 degrees or so.
Before that, it was the same as AB and AA-Special and even AA-Super (which only had a shorter rear end).
A had long dropouts with eyelets, but for the rear the dimensions were the same. Again: until the big change late 1980s.
I am building up a AA Special and wondered if anyone had some good advice on the best way of getting the brake wire laced through the top tube.