-
• #2
Dura Ace 110, and if you cannot find them ,try the conversion kit. I sell them for $50 front and rear complete.
You can get phil wood too, and novatec.
Earlier 110 spaced keirin frames will also have slotted 8mm front fork ends, which will not accept 9mm hub axles. -
• #3
Cool, cheers for that, so I can get Phil woods that will just bolt straight on?
-
• #5
I've a wheelset (suzue hubs, tub rims) for sale 110 rear spacing
-
• #6
Cheers guys, but I just went to get some beers and missed the end of the bloody auction, back to the drawing board!
-
• #7
I believe you can use most normal hubs, and just take the spacers out.
-
• #8
If it is a 'spensive frame don't do this, but you could just bend out the stays. Sheldon has tips for doing so.
Alternatively, you can (or at least could) get a Sovus 110 hub for £14.99 on SJS cycles.
-
• #9
asm If it is a 'spensive frame don't do this, but you could just bend out the stays. Sheldon has tips for doing so.
Yeah, it's well easy to do. Did it with some knackered old frame I found dumped in the street.
-
• #10
pretty much nearly every company had* a set of 110mm hubs avaialble
campy had some njs hubs in 110mm, suntour superbe pro, my sansin's and DAs are 110mm, phils can come in 110mm, gran compes, novetec...etc etc
pretty much 110mm was the old keirin standard and that spacing (which is actually 113mm, for 1.5mm tensioners on either side) is seen on njs frames.
i don't get why it was, but it was lol. same thing like 26.8 seatposts and 27.0 seatposts. i have no idea why.
on most hubs can cannot simply "remove" spacers...for loose ball hubs u will need the DA 120mm-> 110mm conversion kit...which includes the 8mm slotted axle (versus the 10mm axle), cones, and nuts.
-
• #11
Hi there,
Sorry to dig up this, but I'm not sure what to do. Googled it a bit but would like some advice. Got an old frame with 110mm rear spacing. Whereas it was a standard for single geared bike at that time, it means none of my current wheels fits in. I have fitted so far a standard shimano bb 68mm with a crankset that I m not sure it is road or track (think track - cheap branding), but that combo (bb + cranks) worked fine on a 120mm rear spacing that I had.
Should I :
Go Sheldon Brown way and try to lift up the rear spacing up to 120
http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html > Spreading the frame
Bearing in mind that the frame is old, so I'd like not to snap off the chainstays neither seatstays. It is only 10mm though and Sheldon says there's no problem for such a step.Or go and get a 110mm hubs / whole wheel ( Any suggestion as it is for a beater? dont need a Phil Wood, definitely.) and then see what happens with chainline. (afraid it would be out of reach by far.)
Or something else? any suggestions, ideas, experiences would be gladly appreciated.
-
• #12
if it's steel just bend it, if not get a hub. no idea where to get them
-
• #14
I widened an old steel frame the Sheldon way.
Scary while doing it, but it was a breeze. -
• #15
I widened an old steel frame the Sheldon way.
Scary while doing it, but it was a breeze.Thanks you just made up my mind on this :) Thanks for all the advice and yes it's steel. Hubs looks interesting and super versatile though I will end up spending twice the money on a wheelset than on the rest of the parts, a bit of non sense :)
-
• #16
good luck.
The worst was thinking I might offset one side more than the other.
Took some time + kept measuring.
I spread one side by the required amount, then the other
Sorry if this is a dumb ass question, but where can you get 110 spaced rear hubs, do they do Phil Wood 110 rear hubs?
Cheers for any help.