Genesis flyer owners

Charge spoon by the looks of it...
http://www.chargebikes.com/products/parts/spoon.php#

Oi voodoo dave, hows the grips working out?

Just got a Genesis Flyer 2010 brand new frame for £199! Going to spend all winter getting bits and bobs and building it up!
Winter is coming!

Could you someone please confirm Flyer has:
BB = 107mm and what crankset would suit the best?

• miche primato advanced track chainset 100
  
• ambrosio pista track chainset 100
  
• token token alloy track chainset
  
  

Let me know if you are selling any similar cranksets.

Anyone with a Genesis Flyer fancy indulging my laziness and telling me what size seat clamp it needs? Mine is all the way out in the shed.
The original clamp is now on my Pomp which Planet X says takes a 29.8 so I presume this will be fine?

I used a 30.0 on my 2007 (well..its a white one).

posted for archival resource sake.

My first build, just rode it to work.
Bars are a bit narrow... chain is a little noisy at the back... couldn't fix that... apart from that - brilliant!

with flash

Haha, amazing, good work!

Hi all,

My ignorance may help anyone else out there as clueless as myself... I couldn't work out (even on a bike seemingly this simple) the best way to flip the wheel... Or what the point was of a chain tensioner when you have an adjustable ('track forkend') nut at the axle anyway... also various forums seemed undecided as to whether you needed to undo the tensioner before the nut on the rear axle, or vice versa, to flip the wheel onto fixed.

So... huge thanks to nielsamd:

               Yes the thin tension bolts have tiny allen heads. 

The bolts help to locate the wheel in the sweet (safe) spot where the chain is not loose or too tense and keep it centered down the frameline so you aren't cycling sideways or rubbing the tire on a chainstay.
There should only be ~1/4 inch easy play in the chain, up or down, if you try to move it with your fingers and no natural `sag'.. Ideally that sweet spot for the wheel is in the middle of the dropout slot at the hub bolt.

The tension bolt usefulness sort of depends on your chain length/gear-size combo.
It is quite likely, if not downright desirable, when flipping the wheel that you'll need to loosen them, so that you can shift the wheel forward, to get the chain loose and off the sprocket or chainring.

When I do this I try to count the turns I make with the allen key so that I have an idea how much to move them back to reset to the same tension.

               It shouldn't make a difference which you do first [loosen tension bolt or axle nuts at rear] when loosening. The aim then is to get the chain off the sprocket or chainring. 

The sequence is more important when tightening up again after you re-engage the chain. That's when the position of the tensioners helps you locate the wheel in the sweet spot I mentioned. When you are happy with the wheel position and chain tension (as helped/determined by the tensioner), you can tighten the axle nuts to their final tightness.

Note: there are metric and imperial allen keys floating about so it may be that you have the wrong' set which might be ok with bigger bolts on the bike but may be unworkable with the small tension allen heads. That is my guess there. I think Genesis could have been a bit more practical here but it is what it is. In the70s Campagnolo had decent dropouts with things you could adjust by hand:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/...d1cfeb9a8e.jpg
and there is an American company I wrote to thinking I could replace the Genesis bolts with theirs: http://www.paulcomp.com/dropouts.html but it didn't seem at all certain they would fit.

Also, may be of use.... advice was to keep the chain tensioner well greased, and:

'assuming the allen head hasn't rounded, it will use either 2.5, 3 or 4mm allen headed screws (they've changed over the years the Flyer's been in production).'

Now to get the damn seatpost out. Impossible without losing the paint it seems...

](http://www.flickr.com/photos/thecinderellaboy/6918933550/)
Genesis Flyer 2011 by The Cinderella Boy, on Flickr[/IMG]
Only had my Genesis since August but it's constantly changing. I originally kept it classic but have just switched to risers. I've got brooks mandarin grips on them to match the saddle and keep a bit of the classic feel. I want to powder coat it next.

You can see the grips on this one. Got the risers, stem and brake lever for a snip as Deniz at Hadron had taken them off another bike.

Genesis Flyer 2011 by The Cinderella Boy, on Flickr

Anyone with a Flyer had trouble with a chainring hitting the chainstay?

I tried fitting a 48t to mine and it was rubbing the stay . I'm using a road crank, an Ultegra HT2, but the problem was from trying to align the ring with the sprocket nothing to do with the cranks.

Mighta been the wheel I spose. It's a charge dish wheel, pretty standard fair I thought?

Hi,

Anyone fitted Miche Primato Advanced Track Chainset to a Genesis Flyer?

My Flyer is a 2008 (white) currently fitted with the std cranks and the now buggered std BB (103x68), I have found that the bike shop around the corner from Condor will do a set of cranks (in red) and a Tifosi BB for £120, but I cant get the bike into them to figure out the right length BB to get the chain line right. Any thoughts?

Ferris

Early models had quite tight clearance. I had to crimp the driveside chainstay on mine to fit a 48T. A bit of a pain but mine was due a re-paint so I wasn't that precious.

Anyone with a Flyer had trouble with a chainring hitting the chainstay?

I tried fitting a 48t to mine and it was rubbing the stay . I'm using a road crank, an Ultegra HT2, but the problem was from trying to align the ring with the sprocket nothing to do with the cranks.

Mighta been the wheel I spose. It's a charge dish wheel, pretty standard fair I thought?

Early models had quite tight clearance. I had to crimp the driveside chainstay on mine to fit a 48T. A bit of a pain but mine was due a re-paint so I wasn't that precious.

Cool. Mine has been powdercoated but this was done when I didn't own it so having not paid for it I wasn't too bothered about buggering it up. I've painted the area, plus the bb area, rattle can black the now. It'll probably get a complete respray before too long. Or raw.

Came off mine and went flying... back wheel severely bent, looking to get tyres/wheels more suited to London roads, and trying to work out if the chain looped itself as to why the bloody thing locked up. Fun times. Are Alex DAs not recommended, hence not on the list? Thinking thicker (than Rubino Pros) tyres maybe best of both worlds, any thoughts much appreciated.

Ace Evans in Fulham Broadway btw wrenched seatpost out of frame, third place to try after first said blowtorch, second, 'no'.

The wheelset is perfectly fine, sound like you've had some mechanical problem that you decided to ignore causing this to happen.

Agree, didn't realise the chain had to be quite so taut, assuming this caused it to lock. Was going too fast around a corner with terrible surfacing and very pumped tyres too; all in all not the best idea. Helmet saved hospital trip. For now.

My crap bike I was using in the meantime got its tyre slashed from the bike locks at the back of Clapham Junction, left from about 11AM-9PM. So er suggest avoiding these, unless it's just me... So if anyone happens to be selling 2nd hand tyre to suit Specialized Crossroads, would be cool.

After getting a bit carried away on ebay, I’ve ended up with a 2011 Genesis Flyer frameset.

So to build it-up I’m trying to figure out what components I need and would look right. Can anyone help?

Specifically…

Colour – I guess I should go with silver components?

Chainset – does it make a difference if I go 1/8 or 3/32?

Crankset – If I get the recommended bottom bracket, are drive-side cranks standard in terms of chain line? What would look right on this frame?

Wheels – Would these look ok? http://www.lfgss.com/thread102200.html Or Vs are not right for this bike?

Handle bars – Rather than drops, I’m thinking a flat bar or marybar type set-up. Or is that just wrong? I ride around town, mostly shortish but frequent trips to work, to pick-up shopping, to drop the kids at school, to thepub, etc. Not that much head-down straight-line riding.

Thanks

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Gabe...

I don't know what colour your frameset is but assuming it's blue, I'd go with black components as I have a similar setup, albeit not finished yet on my '07 flyer. Silver or white looks good on lighter coloured frames.

Chainsets are usually all eighth inch for FGSS setups but this thread should answer all your questions http://www.lfgss.com/thread1992.html.

For light riding, I'd look at either Charge or Miche cranks as they're quite durable but don't clean you out in the process. Definitely get the best bottom bracket that you can afford / want to dish out for as cheap ones usually don't last the ride home from the shop.

Velocity Deep V's / Mavic Open Pro's etc are usually built like a nuclear bunker so if you live in a pothole infested minefield, then these are definitely your first choice.

Risers are good for relaxed riding as are bullhorns. Drops with drop brake levers are also good if the headwind is sticking into you on your way back from work as you can get down low and shoot through it. I've run risers and drops before and I'm currently running Nitto bullhorns which happen to be the most comfortable bars I've had yet

A shot of my build can be found here http://www.flickr.com/photos/52887256@N05/8739019709/in/photostream and here http://www.flickr.com/photos/52887256@N05/8740143318/in/photostream/

**Took 9 for a ride today! **

Any thoughts on the new shaped Flyer? Personally I'm sad to see the flat top tube go.

Much better than the original, it's more of a road/audax fixed bike now.

component is very decent for the price despite the brake levers (couldn't get on with the shape).

I'd always seen the flyer as mainly for tooling around town on, though I've taken mine for numerous jaunts up to 100km outside the M25 and it was great. I guess if there's a market for a fixed/ss road/audax bike this will be the place