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@TheorySwine
Ostensibly a collection of the restaurant reviews Jonathan Meades wrote while the critic for The Times, this polemic sees him revel in his clever-dick persona so much that he barely takes the trouble to mention food at all. He just swipes the subject from his plate like a withered vegetable.Trouble is, he's an excellent and imperious clever-dick.
Restaurant criticism is an underrated sub-category of literature, as is sports journalism. Meades was integral in the snide but knowing cultural approach to describing a dinner, investing it with the seriousness it deserved, while pulling off an imaginative review with real flair. I've owned this book for years but have never finished it, as it irritates/impresses in equal measure. I will keep returning to it though, to continue admiring a really assertive and confident demonstration of critical and creative writing.