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@moth
Or, to be a little more helpful:
A wheel holds you up by compressing (reducing the tension in) the spokes near where it touches the ground. Several failure modes result from spokes going slack so using more tension to start with helps avoid that, but there are limits and trade-offs. With enough tension you can overcome the strength of the rim and it can spontaneously pringle. This is easiest with large diameter, thin, shallow, light weight rims with lots of spokes*. Jobst Brandt's theory is you should get close to this point then back-off a little, but recognising that is not for a first time.
Increasing spoke tension makes it ever harder to turn the nipples and the spokes twist more as you work, so it gets harder to make accurate adjustments and more likely you'll leave spokes twisted (causing the wheel to go out of true when ridden). Lubrication helps. Plain gauge spokes twist less, but are otherwise worse than butted.
*I did it on the first wheel i ever built - a 27" 36h rim that ticked all the other risk boxes too.
This. Around the valve hole it looks like you have a pattern of 2 spokes to one flange, 2 to the other. Opposite the valve hole it looks ok - alternate rim holes have spokes from alternate flanges.