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@Zakkz
If anyone is interested in the end result, it turned out to be the bottom bracket - one end of it was loose. So loose that when I took off the crank, I turned it a few rotations by hand and it came off.
It looked as if when I was pedalling, the end of the BB was rubbing up against the crank, stopping it from turning. Pedalling backwards screwed it back in and when I pedalled forwards, it came loose again and got stuck
True story...