Locks that work

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  • You know your circumstances, of course, but even good ground anchors are not expensive, and fixing one is just a matter of drilling a couple of holes, then screwing in the supplied security bolts. It's nreally ot a big deal. If you're going to be there for a couple of years, it would be well worth it. Even a couple of months, maybe.

    I have a friend who's a big motorcycle nut. For the one year he was in his last house the cost of a ground anchor was less than half the reduction in his bike insurance cost. The landlord was quite OK with it as he knew the sort of people likely to rent the property would have bikes or a scooter. We just lifted one of the flags and filled the hole with concrete. I doubt the whole mission cost more than £15 plus the screw in anchor.

    Y'know what, I just had a look and you're quite right, I had no idea they were so cheap and (relatively) easy to install. There's one (www.torc-anchors.com) that uses resin, so you don't even need to concrete it in. And they're so small that I'd feel much more comfortable approaching the landlord. Thanks for making me see the light on this!

    If it's really not an option then maybe look at other approaches such as Plantlock:

    http://www.frontyardcompany.co.uk/products/plantlock.html

    Nothing to stop you making something similar yourself with a metal bin, holes either side and run the chain through it, fill it with soil to give it mass. Combined planter and bike lock in one. While the bin might not be reinforced it would be a git to get the chain out of there.

    That looks even better, though, it looks nice and you can take it with you when you move like a piece of furniture. Shame it's so pricey... a DIY metal bin job could work though. I'll have a dabble in the crazy world of metal garden bins.

    Failing that just buy more bikes to lock together :)

    Winner! :D

    I've seen those before and avoided locking my bike to them as I always assumed that the bars you lock your bike to were essentially gas pipe, but reading that brochure it turns out I could not have been more wrong. They are really cool.

    Yeah, the brochure makes it sound really, really secure, very impressive.

  • Hi, I was thinking about having this set up shown by my awesome paint skills. Yellow =**Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini. **Orange = **Kryptonite Mini Pro evo. **Grey = **Abus Granit X-Plus 54. **I'd use the abus granit at the rear end if I can attach both ends to the pole, If not I'd used the fahg instead as I trust it more. After reading most of this thread, I'm beginning to lose trust in the Granit and I was thinking of getting a **Kryptonite New York M-18 **to replace it. Is this a good idea? I know they'd all be Kryptonite if I do replace it, which isn't very good as thiefs will use the same technique...

    I know this extra bit belongs in the 'how to lock your bike technique' but I might aswell post it here.
    I was thinking of using two kryptonite mini pro evo to attach the frame to the pole, shown in the above image.
    I'm not quiet sure if this will work but if it does, is it an inefficient way of using an extra U-lock?
    Here it is.
    Purple = Frame
    The two locks are kryp pro evos
    The non colored cylinder = pole
    I think by doing this you'd reduce the space between the locks thus harder to break them... What do you think? Note: both u locks intertwine

    As you can see I'm gonna go all out military security on my bike :P


    2 Attachments

    • Bike lock.png
    • LOCKS.png
  • That granit in the picture is doing absolutely nothing, apart from when they steal your wheel, they'll have to cut it off at home... There is no necessity for 3 d-locks, if they can cut one, then they can cut three. (assuming similar quality)

  • That granit in the picture is doing absolutely nothing, apart from when they steal your wheel, they'll have to cut it off at home... There is no necessity for 3 d-locks, if they can cut one, then they can cut three. (assuming similar quality)

    Considering what other posted, I think I can attach the front wheel to the frame to the pole. Also, if I were to leave locked up somewhere I'm sure a thief would think twice about the amount of work he has to do to get through all 4, no?

  • I would give up cycling if i had to carry 4 d locks everywhere

  • You should only need two locks really. A primary and secondary. You can buy two different types of lock and attach each through a wheel and a part of the frame and post/sheffield stand and it should be secure enough. The locks just through the frame are overkill. I think I read in another of your ridiculous posts that you were in Kent too. Not too sure you need so much security unless you are locking up at your local crack den.

  • what about yer saddle? itd be a shame to come back to a vigorelli with 4 d-locks on it and a saddle missing..

  • Please read the first post of this thread. At the bottom of that post is a link to Seatpost Security, and that covers saddle security also.

  • What are we thinking then chaps? Looks fucking shocking, but there is significant 'buzz' around it...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wA9KcYWhnmY

    http://tigrlock.com/product/

  • looking at the attack test video, it seems they missed a trick in not making a conventional d-lock from that Ti ribbon..

  • Could you not just smack the fuck out of the shackle with a big hammer? I'd like to see that test

  • With that Tiger lock, did the guy attack the thin axis of the strip with the fuck off bolt cutters, or just the thick axis? I saw that he attacked the thin axis with tin snips but not the big boys that he had.

    If the strip survived that, I'd be much more interested.

  • Happy to be proved wrong but that looks shit. Like Tiswas said the lack of anyone other than the inventor trying to break the lock is a worry, also I would imagine that it would be much more expensive than a fahg seeing as it uses a good amount of titanium which isn't cheap.

    I firmly believe that a good quality lock provides a visual deterrent, it looks meaty and hard to break. That looks flimsy as so how much damage is likely to be caused to your bike when a bike thief decides to try and force it open because it looks like an easy target?

  • I still fail to understand why tynan's 'special paste' isn't in the list on the first page. Perhaps only because technically it's not a lock. Oh. As you were.

  • I would imagine that it would be much more expensive than a fahg seeing as it uses a good amount of titanium which isn't cheap.

    Their store has them at £105 and £128 for the thicker one.

  • Maybe we should see if velocio can get one of those tigr locks off them and we let the forum loose at it to see if it can be destroyed.

  • Looking at my options for a new lock, and it's a toss-up between a M18 and a Fahg. I fear I may have to faff around too much with a Fahg, where the M18 would give me more locking options. Are there any downsides to the M18 compared to the Mini Fahg? Or should I just compromise and go for a 3000?

  • .....Are there any downsides to the M18 compared to the Mini Fahg? .....

    Only weight. That's it.

  • Thanks a lot dude. I think I might go down the M18 route then. I always carry a backpack and I'm a big guy, so I don't think I would notice the difference so much.

    Is the standard NY lock a noticeable step-down in terms of security, ie has anyone on here who's had one been the victim of theft?

  • Can anyone advise me the lightest recommended primary lock?

  • Have you looked at the list (page 1 of this thread)? Weights have been added, as far as possible.

  • The m-18 doesn't seem that much heavier than the fahg, most of the weight is in the cylinder, so although it is a bit heavier because of the longer shackle, it's hard to tell much difference between the two when you're riding around with one in a backpack.

  • Have you looked at the list (page 1 of this thread)? Weights have been added, as far as possible.

    Yes I had a look at the list, I was interested if there was any more information on the matter. For example the weight of the GRP lock you own is not listed, would you care to share?

  • The m-18 doesn't seem that much heavier than the fahg, most of the weight is in the cylinder, so although it is a bit heavier because of the longer shackle, it's hard to tell much difference between the two when you're riding around with one in a backpack.

    I already have a mini-fagh, want something to use as a 2nd primary lock (to replace my mini-evo) but something that is a little lighter than the fagh, but secure enough for trips to the pub.

  • I'd just use a mini evo..

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Locks that work

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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