A combination of moving one of the 1mm BB axle spacers from drive side to NDS, the already wide chainline of my Surly Fixxer equipped hubs, maybe putting a second 0.4mm shim under the sprocket and finally accepting that an imperfect chainline might be better than the extra frontal area associated with a spacer between spider and chainring. At the moment, without adding another sprocket shim, I have 45.77mm at the back and 46.45mm at the front, so just under 0.7mm offset. We can't be sure that the centre of the dropouts is that closely in line with the centre of the BB shell, so the only way to be sure that the chain is straight is to build it up and then stick the whole bike on a surface plate, chock it until the plane of the chainring is exactly parallel with the datum plane and then get busy with the dial guage and shims.
A combination of moving one of the 1mm BB axle spacers from drive side to NDS, the already wide chainline of my Surly Fixxer equipped hubs, maybe putting a second 0.4mm shim under the sprocket and finally accepting that an imperfect chainline might be better than the extra frontal area associated with a spacer between spider and chainring. At the moment, without adding another sprocket shim, I have 45.77mm at the back and 46.45mm at the front, so just under 0.7mm offset. We can't be sure that the centre of the dropouts is that closely in line with the centre of the BB shell, so the only way to be sure that the chain is straight is to build it up and then stick the whole bike on a surface plate, chock it until the plane of the chainring is exactly parallel with the datum plane and then get busy with the dial guage and shims.