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  • What are these "options" of keeping rust off?

    Well you can get a clear powdercoat but that'll only stick to a shotblasted frame (which has a dull matte grey finish itself, but will be glossy because it has a clearcoat). Or you can get a clear stove enamel. Or you could also get a wet paint clearcoat (acrylic or cellulose) but I wouldn't recommend it - it's not very durable unless applied over the proper basecoats. Clearcoats of any kind will generally only stick to shotblasted stuff - un-blasted frame tubes are relatively smooth. They stick to rust okay so long as it's not flaky.

    Or you can go for some kinda oil - linseed oil will dry to a hard semi-gloss finish and won't rub off, and I only needed to do it twice in six months to prevent rust, but it's slightly yellow (more noticeable on a rough-finish because it tends to congregate in the pores of the metal - I'm currently testing it on a piece of polished steel and it doesn't look yellow with three light applications). WD40 won't go yellow but needs very regular re-application. Other oils may leave a sticky residue or rub off onto your clothes.

    There's a product which is specially designed to be painted over raw or polished metal:
    http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/
    It's brush-paintable, too, so you won't have to pay for a sprayer to paint your frame. I've read good reviews about it, but I haven't seen it firsthand.

    I would recommend linseed oil - it'll stop the rust completely, and you won't need to completely remove all the old paint and decals, either (to give that cool worn-away ancient paint look). Unlike paints or clearcoats, if it gets scraped off, you can just wipe a bit more on. It's cheap, too - about a fiver for a bottle that'll last for probably hundreds of applications. Finally, if you don't like it, it's easy to remove with a rag dipped in turpentine.

    Here's my linseed-oiled frame.

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