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Thanks for the info Sherms!
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Sherms, got a great deal from the link you provided..free postage...will be out riding soon, thanks again!
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Got a question, the MKS pedals are 9/16 threads, I purchased the above pedals, and they don't fit the Campag NR cranks! Silly question are the threads in the cranks compatible? IE French, Italian or English threads? In the same way as the BB has different threads.
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Pedal
The part you put your foot on. The axles of the pedals screw into the cranks.**Pedal Threading [INDENT]
Direction**[INDENT]The right pedal has a normal thread, but the left pedal has a left (reverse) thread. The reason for this is not obvious: The force from bearing friction would, in fact, tend to unscrew pedals threaded in this manner. It is not the bearing friction that makes pedals unscrew themselves, but a phenomenon called "precession".You can demonstrate this to yourself by performing a simple experiment. Hold a pencil loosely in one fist, and move the end of it in a circle. You will see that the pencil, as it rubs against the inside of your fist, rotates in the opposite direction.
Ignorant people outside the bicycle industry sometimes make the astonishing discovery that the way it has been done for 100 years is "wrong." "Look at these fools, they go to the trouble of using a left thread on one pedal, then the bozos go and put the left thread on the wrong side! Shows that bicycle designers have no idea what they are doing..."
Another popular theory of armchair engineers is that the threads are done this way so that, if the pedal bearing locks up, the pedal will unscrew itself instead of breaking the rider's ankle.
The left-threaded left pedal was not the result of armchair theorizing, it was a solution to a real problem: people's left pedals kept unscrewing! I have read that this was invented by the Wright brothers, but I am not sure of this.
Note! The precession effect doesn't substitute for screwing your pedals in good and tight. It is very important to do so. The threads (like almost all threads on a bicycle) should be lubricated with grease, or at least with oil.
[/INDENT]**
Thread Sizes**- Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads.
- Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi.
- Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. French-threaded pedals are commonly labeled "D" and G" (French for "droite" and"gauche" (right and left). A French pedal will start to thread into a 9/16 x 20 crank, but will soon bind. Do not force it, or it will damage the crank.
- In the early 1980s, Shimano attempted to popularize a very large thread size, called "Dyna Drive." This system was designed to place the pedal bearing inside of the crank, so that the foot could be slightly below the pivot point of the pedal bearing. This was believed to offer biomechanical advantages, but the system was not a commercial success, and has been abandoned.
**
Pedal Threading **[INDENT] Standard-3-piece cranks
9/16" (0.56") x 20 tpi
14.28 x 1.27 mmOne-piece (American) Cranks
1/2" (0.50") x 20 tpi
12.7 x 1.27 mmOld French
14 mm x 1.25 mm
0.55" 20.32 tpi
[/INDENT]**Pedal Types **- Plain pedals rely on the rider's coordination to keep the foot properly located on the pedal. This type of pedal is most popular with beginner or unsophisticated riders, who fear being unable to put a foot down in a hurry.
- Toe-clippable pedals (sometimes known as "rat trap" or "quill" pedals) which work with stirrup-like clips and adjustable straps to hold the foot in place. These were the near-universal choice of knowledgeable cyclists until the 1980's. Toe-clip pedals, especially "platform" pedals, may be used either with normal street shoes or with special cleated shoes. The use of cleated shoes with toe clips, however, was made obsolete by the development of:
- Clipless pedals, which provide a positive connection between the shoe and the pedal, without the constriction of straps. Some clipless shoe-pedal systems have protruding cleats, while others have recessed cleats so the shoes are walkable.
[/INDENT]*
via sheldonbrown.com* - Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads.
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• #8
Years ago (30) i remember that MKS pedals were a ridiculously tight fit in campag and stronglight cranks, but not SR cranks
I bought a standard pedal tap and run through it the cranks, I still have the pedal tap! -
Hi Malaysian
Yep pedals on the correct side..MKS stamp "L & R" on the pedals :)
The pedals screw in about a quarter of the way in with fingers. Am aware that over tightening will strip the crank threads. I thought perhaps wrongly the pedals are screwed in finger tight n finished off wth a shifter/spanner!
My LBS installed the cranks and looks like a visit to them for a bit of guidance
Thanks, Rogersilly question, have you got the pedals on the correct side (one pedal is for left, other is for right crank)...
They should be screwing in towards the front wheel if you follow me.
also, a dab of grease and a gentle hand when installing them so as not to damage the crank threads.
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Hi Sherms
Appreciate the info, Sheldon Brown knows his stuff!
The Campag crankset was purchased from the USA (NW Coast) via The Bay, hence me asking about threads. They are Campag by the way...Have checked to make sure I wasnt having a bad day.... see also nightmare!
Got me bluffed, the bike in question came to me with Shimano Golden Arrow cranks and MKS sylvan pedals. (A new Campag BB installed btw) I have re-checked these cranks the original pedals and they screw in to the shimano ok, finger tight and finish off with a spanner/shifter. The old pedals have had it, just so as you know :)
Leaving me to wonder are both crank threads stripped or damaged in a way I can't detect, OR, as the last post said MKS made their products with a snug fit esp with the Campag NR cranks?
As I said to Malaysian above, my LBS will be getting my hard earned. Have never had this issue before..... but there's always a first time.! Will post the LBS response / fix just so as you guys can sleep at night :)
Happy New Year
Cheers, RogerPedal
The part you put your foot on. The axles of the pedals screw into the cranks.**Pedal Threading **
[INDENT]Direction
[INDENT]The right pedal has a normal thread, but the left pedal has a left (reverse) thread. The reason for this is not obvious: The force from bearing friction would, in fact, tend to unscrew pedals threaded in this manner. It is not the bearing friction that makes pedals unscrew themselves, but a phenomenon called "precession".You can demonstrate this to yourself by performing a simple experiment. Hold a pencil loosely in one fist, and move the end of it in a circle. You will see that the pencil, as it rubs against the inside of your fist, rotates in the opposite direction.
Ignorant people outside the bicycle industry sometimes make the astonishing discovery that the way it has been done for 100 years is "wrong." "Look at these fools, they go to the trouble of using a left thread on one pedal, then the bozos go and put the left thread on the wrong side! Shows that bicycle designers have no idea what they are doing..."
Another popular theory of armchair engineers is that the threads are done this way so that, if the pedal bearing locks up, the pedal will unscrew itself instead of breaking the rider's ankle.
The left-threaded left pedal was not the result of armchair theorizing, it was a solution to a real problem: people's left pedals kept unscrewing! I have read that this was invented by the Wright brothers, but I am not sure of this.
Note! The precession effect doesn't substitute for screwing your pedals in good and tight. It is very important to do so. The threads (like almost all threads on a bicycle) should be lubricated with grease, or at least with oil.
[/INDENT]Thread Sizes[]Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads.
[]Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi.
[]Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. French-threaded pedals are commonly labeled "D" and G" (French for "droite" and"gauche" (right and left). A French pedal will start to thread into a 9/16 x 20 crank, but will soon bind. Do not force it, or it will damage the crank.
[]In the early 1980s, Shimano attempted to popularize a very large thread size, called "Dyna Drive." This system was designed to place the pedal bearing inside of the crank, so that the foot could be slightly below the pivot point of the pedal bearing. This was believed to offer biomechanical advantages, but the system was not a commercial success, and has been abandoned.**Pedal Threading **
[INDENT]Standard-3-piece cranks
9/16" (0.56") x 20 tpi
14.28 x 1.27 mmOne-piece (American) Cranks
1/2" (0.50") x 20 tpi
12.7 x 1.27 mmOld French
14 mm x 1.25 mm
0.55" 20.32 tpi
[/INDENT]**Pedal Types **[*]Plain pedals rely on the rider's coordination to keep the foot properly located on the pedal. This type of pedal is most popular with beginner or unsophisticated riders, who fear being unable to put a foot down in a hurry.
[*]Toe-clippable pedals (sometimes known as "rat trap" or "quill" pedals) which work with stirrup-like clips and adjustable straps to hold the foot in place. These were the near-universal choice of knowledgeable cyclists until the 1980's. Toe-clip pedals, especially "platform" pedals, may be used either with normal street shoes or with special cleated shoes. The use of cleated shoes with toe clips, however, was made obsolete by the development of:
[*]Clipless pedals, which provide a positive connection between the shoe and the pedal, without the constriction of straps. Some clipless shoe-pedal systems have protruding cleats, while others have recessed cleats so the shoes are walkable.[/INDENT]*via sheldonbrown.com*
Sherms
TM
Smiler1962-
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MKS pedals - Campag NR substitutes
Posted by
Hey all
Need some help with this wee problem. Campag NR pedals are expensive...no pedale no ride :( MKS do some very good look-a-likes. Am trying to track down which MKS pedal will fit the NR cranks??
cheers