Removing Dings?

Or, get really powerful magnets.

add a dong ?
ding + dong = 0

Otherwise, you might find a really old-school car mechanic who still knows how to fill dents with lead - get him to fill your dents with pewter and polish them up.

Lead loading- they talk about it quite a lot in "Practical Classics" magazine- so the skills are still out there in the sheds and garages of Britain.

reminds me of a BNP campaign

Lead loading- they talk about it quite a lot in "Practical Classics" magazine- so the skills are still out there in the sheds and garages of Britain.

Yup, my Hillman Avenger GT was in PC in about 2008.

Nice! I only pick it up now and again- normally when there is an Amazon on the front.

spend a bit of time on solejam (NZ) . and have been lurking here for a while looking for a good first post op. here goes.

i have used the " clamp it to tight in a frame clamp and spin it around" method just in a safer way...

get a piece of hardwood as long as the dent. and big enough to cover the cross section of the tube ( aluminium blocks can be found HERE but i find wood works very well )

drill a hole in it the size of the tube. (or SLIGHTLY smaller (round down to the nearest mm))

saw through the middle of the block, leaving two blocks which fit around the tube.

now - lightly clamp the blocks around the tube BESIDE the dent, and rotate them around and around the tube, ( you should find the tube is slightly oval, and the paint will start to wear off. )

keep doing this and slowly ( 1mm per revolution ) work the blocks up over the dent. this should ( no responsibility taken, though ive done it 10+ times and its been sweet as ) start to "pop" the dent out..

keep spinning around and around the tube and working back and forth. every pass over the dented area, do the clamp up a little till its mega tight ( the tube will become oval when clamped right up.. when the dent is gone, keep going and slowly back the clamp off) i have used this technique on columbus genius tubing ( very thin ) and the tube deforms asmuch as 4-5 mm on each end, and when hot is very flexible . just remember to back off the clamp slowly.

this will make the tube very hot. and will push the tube back towards its original shape. ive used it mainly on big dents (say a tube wall pushed in 5mm from original) and it has ended up 0.5 - 1.5mm from round.

might be worth a try, sory for lac of pics.

2 notes

1) this will destroy your paint. end of story.

2) i have no idea what this will do to the tempering of heat-treated tubes, but i have ridden (and am still riding) a columbus genius frame after multiple dings have been pushed out.

• double post, also check out this thread (excuse this cross-forum nonsense)
  http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/497181-Blocks-to-repair-dent-in-frame
  

Do you think it'd work on small, but very deep dent on a seatstay? I can feel that the tubing is oval either side of the dent.

I'm not sure if the seatstay tapers.

hmmm. if at any point the tube is "bigger" ( outside its old sillouette ) than is should be, then you might be able to push it out. my advice would go very very slowly when tightening up the clamp to give it lots of time too heat up... the tube would also have to have originally been round (not oval)
i've only ever done it on the tt/dt, but might be worth a go. if you read that other thread you will doscover you dont need to go round and round, you can go back + forth, which may help as the other seatstay will probably get in the way.

Hey, Garret... Are you my friend?

Ozzie mating call?

Young Guns.

how would i know!?
probably not...

if i am, my "about-me" in my profile will give it away...

Young Guns.

Best movie ever...

Pat Garrett, you're a yellow bellied turncoat.

Pat Garrett is my sisters mother in law. FACT.

what a night, became an austrailian yellowbellied friend of a motherinlaws whats-a-ma-coat who cant spot a spider smaller than a dinner plate and killed a famous cowboy!?

maybe i should stck to lurking?

You didn't kill him...

Seriously... fucken...