Chain tension and tensioning a chain

As long as you physically can't push/lift the chain off the front chainring get it as slack as you can.

I think more harm than good has been done by following Sheldon's advice to the letter, and I include myself in that.

My chain is quiet, lasts me long time GI, and I don't need to give a fuck about centering my already very round chainring.

Thanks for the replies. I think I will leave it :)

Hey,

How does everyone tension their chains?

Do you just walk it back it the drop outs?
Do you always have to turn your bike upside down,
Do you use any tools other than a spanner for the wheel nuts?

Cheers

yes
no
no

I use a socket wrench,

Sit down on a chair and put my foot on the top of the rear triangle and pull the wheel back, perfect chain tension in 10 seconds.

Never turn the bike upside down. Only triathletes do this.
Depends on the dropouts, on a brand new frame with decent nuts chain tension can be found the first time. On an older frame the dropouts might be mashed a little and the wheel walks it's way along as you tighten the nuts, in this case tighten the non drive side first.

Never turn the bike upside down. Only triathletes do this.

Bee mexers too. Check any 7-11 in Canada.

Stick a tennis ball or rolled up towel between the down tube and the wheel.... Tighten away. Check regularly.... It only takes 5 mins ;0)

Tug-nuts to you!

4 jeri make some burly chain tensioners (KOJAK) for £6. beats washing grease and grime off your fingers every week or so. Pretty sure they're made for BMX, but they've kept my fingers (and tennis balls) clean...

Hi,
I recently bought and assembled someone else's done up single speed. I'm relatively new to bike maintenance so had a few questions:
How taught should the chain be? The tension in the chain is not constant but it doesn't appear to be so varied as to be concerning.
There is a gap of c.2mm between the shoulder of the right crank arm and the frame when fully tightened. The left hand crank arm's shoulder fits snuggly inside the frame leaving no gap. Is this a problem?
Any advice much appreciated.
Cheers

You should be able to move your chain up and down about 20mm each way when you grip it midway between the chainring and the rear cog. Try pedalling the cranks round and pushing the chain off the chainring. If it comes off you obviously have it too loose. But on a single-speed slightly too loose is better than too tight.

Not sure what you're on about with this 'gap' though

Sounds like the bottom bracket is too short. Cranks shouldn't be running that close to the frame.

It may be just that the chain is worn and as streched.Check it with a chainchecker or measuring tape

How do i know if i need a chain tensioner or not on a conversion? The drop out is pointing diagonally down...
thanks

I ride a SS and the chain slipped off earlier this evening. I managed to sort it out but I wanted to get some advice. Tightening the nuts takes strength which I don't seem to have whilst using a bog-standard spanner. The rear wheel still has a little movement despite my best efforts , whilst the front wheel is fixed firmly. Normally I'd take the bike to my, very helpful, lbs and get them to tighten the nuts but the last time that happened I had to get them to loosen the nuts so I could fix a punture. Clearly that isn't ideal.

I'm right-handed and have arthritis in that shoulder so applying a lot of pressure isn't a good idea any more. Would a socket wrench be better for me? Is there anything else I could use that gives great results with less effort?

TIA

Does your spanner have a long handle? If it doesn't then replace it with one that does because the extra leverage makes a huge difference. You can then also use your foot as a brace in a pinch :-)

I ride a SS and the chain slipped off earlier this evening. I managed to sort it out but I wanted to get some advice. Tightening the nuts takes strength which I don't seem to have whilst using a bog-standard spanner. The rear wheel still has a little movement despite my best efforts , whilst the front wheel is fixed firmly. Normally I'd take the bike to my, very helpful, lbs and get them to tighten the nuts but the last time that happened I had to get them to loosen the nuts so I could fix a punture. Clearly that isn't ideal.

I'm right-handed and have arthritis in that shoulder so applying a lot of pressure isn't a good idea any more. Would a socket wrench be better for me? Is there anything else I could use that gives great results with less effort?

TIA

Are your cones tight enough? is the play 'side to side'? a little adjustment to the bearings might be necessary.

@ Bothwell - the handle is long enough that I can wear one very heavy duty thick glove to apply leverage, but I guess a longer handle couldn't hurt. I did use my foot as leverage but I clearly need something/someone stronger :-). My shoulder is not happy with me so I have to find a solution.

@ Alkali, the 'play' is side to side. I just went and checked to be absolutely certain.

I bought the bike, new, in August and outside of changing bars, saddle/seatpost nothing else has been touched.

if play is side to side then the bearings are likely to have developed a bit of slop. This is easy to fix but requires some quite thin spanners for the job and some fairly careful jiggling about. LBS if you're not sure. Doing the bolts up extra tight won't make any difference to this. But if you don't have one already, a decent ring spanner will help as it won't slip so easily if you do put your foot on it.

LBS it is then. Thanks Alkali. Nice to know it's not just my puny strength at fault :0).

How do i know if i need a chain tensioner or not on a conversion? The drop out is pointing diagonally down...
thanks

bit of a basic one, but could anyone advise on this?

thanks v much

Sheldon should be able to help you about half way down the page there are examples of various types of dropout, check what you have against them but from what you have said no.

Nobody actually needs a chain tensioners/tugs. Some people find it easier with them, some don't feel the need to use them.

You need a tensioner if you are converting a frame that has vertical dropouts. Assuming its a ss conversion