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• #2
The type of bearing required is written on the side of the bearings - once you get the dust cover off all will be revealed.
Search for this thread:'**Can a Miche Primato Rear Hub Be Serviced Easily' **or search through the tags for Micheit's easy by the way - take all the gubbins off one side of the axle, tap the axle out, take the bearings out (not so straightforward), put new ones in and put back together again
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• #3
Very helpful, thanks a lot! Hopefully it'll all make sense when I start doing it (that's how I've learnt to do most jobs - through trial and (mainly) error...)
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• #4
Oh forgot to mention this lot are pretty good for the bearings https://simplybearings.co.uk/
I got the bearings in nice and easy by putting the hub in the oven for a bit! The ally expands enough that the bearings will drop in, then cools tight onto them. Otherwise it's a tight old squeeze.
If you're not rebuilding the wheel this might not be the most sensible scheme. -
• #5
A variation on the above if the wheel is still built up is to put the bearings in the freezer for an hour and then gently heat the hub around area the bearing goes in to with a hot air gun or hairdryer until hot to touch - don't overdo it as localised heat can distort stuff. This should certainly make it easier, might even be a simple drop-in as per the oven method. The other reason for not overdoing heating is destroying any paint/lacquer on the hub (if there is any) but they're generally pretty tough.
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• #7
That's a very good guide for sure. In my experience, the grease doesn't freeze anyway, most mineral oil based products have a low freezing point, and bearing grease for things like wheels is designed not to get too viscous at low temperatures for obvious reasons. The benefit of making it easier rather than just whacking them in is that the bit where most people manage to fnck it up is starting to hammer and the bearing going crooked, thereby damaging the hub. Removing the need to hammer so hard reduces this risk.
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• #9
These are good, but high end:
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• #10
Just what i've been after,
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• #11
Sorry if its been said but... After removing the old bearings, put one new bearing on one side of axel - put though hub then put other new bearing on (all loose at this stage) then put the old bearings on top of the new ones and then the track nuts and slowly & evenly tighten the track nuts against the bearings..
Then undo one track nut half way and tighten another tracknut or one of the locknuts against it tightly.
Then, holding the outermost nut (on the two nut combo) undo the other single track nut that you couldn't undo before. then undo the two nut combo! -
• #13
My Miche Pista rear track hub started to feel a bit grindy after about 5 years of commuting. There was some resistance to the drivetrain about a year ago but didn't realise it was due to the hub till all the other parts were upgraded. So I replaced the hub and rebuilt the wheel yesterday and now it's smooth as. But I also bought a set of bearings to have a go at refurbing the old one. They're the right ones I think as I got them from Chicken Cycles who list them as Miche cartridge bearings.
Replacing hub and rebuilding wheel - totally confident.
Replacing hub bearings - total novice.Time to skill up!
My front hub, a Miche Primato, has develped a grinding, clattering noise and hardly spins. I'm guessing the bearings have had their day, after two years of my 33 mile daily round trip. Does anyone know what type of replacement bearings I'll need, and where to get them from? Also, I've never looked inside a hub before, does anyone have an idiots guide to what to do?
Any help appreciated!