Current Projects chat and miscellany

CX18s are more like 330g. Ridability of 24h shallow rims depends on your weight - I had no problems with them when I was ~70kg, built with ACI Aero spokes. The wall thickness on the CX18s (same as GP4s, the lower weight all comes from the narrower width) means they are likely to be more durable than your 265g rims, expect lots of cracking around the spoke holes on those very thin walled rims. Mavic GEL280s were notorious for it.

i am about 82 kilos and had problems with a 24h gp4 wheelset (spokes broke on both wheels). if i stay with 36h rear and 28h front what rims could you recommend (or10/7s)

cheers

New chainset for mtb, brakes are on order

Spoke breakages on what era of build? Modern spokes are better than old ones, you really shouldn't get spokes breaking at the bend like they did in the olden days even with 16 spoke wheels.

Your problems are going to be at the other end of the spoke. If you want the wheels to last, forget about weight weenie metal rims. If it has to be period correct, GP4s are probably the best bet. They're 60g a piece heavier than OR10s, but at least you will actually be able to spend some time riding instead of wasting every other weekend truing your wheels.

The correct approach is to have two sets of wheels; 24h CX18s with 18/19mm track tubs for the prologue, and 32h GP4s for the road stages, or, in your context, the CX18s for showing off at weight weenie meeting and the GP4s for everyday riding.

Next Project:

Maintenance on my Hubs...
HATE IT!

Just putting my feelers out to get a general consensus, 1st impression painted an image of me riding along, and then getting attacked, and a bucket of blood being thrown over me because I fixed up an old bike!
but all good, let me crack on then..

i have some 24h omas nos ti hubs..but i wanted to ride the bike...cx 18s are around 300 grams, right?

I think if i stick with the 36h rear hub and the medaile d'or (265 grams) rim I should get a nice rideable rear wheel. 32h would be ideal but i can't find a 32 ti hub.

shame I have a 32ti front hub

the stem ruins it for me, other than that 10/10

isnt that about the same (dimensions) as nitto 90mm pro aa

A pro AA would put the bars lower than that. Currently looks to be about -10 degrees? I think the Look stems work so well they justify there presence.

Stunning bike but deserves matching tyres and a good chain. And ditch the ht sticker fo sho. :D

shame I have a 32ti front hub

is it 81 or older?

http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=2079&pictureid=11815
http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=2079&pictureid=11816

based on those pictures you've got nothing to worry about. I had a similar dawes last year that wasn't quite as flakey looking, stripped it, did a home rattle can job with plasticote then went to singlespeed on more modern wheels, rode it for a bit then got bored and sold it for profit (ebay fools have too much £££) though that wasn't the intention!
Do what you like with it, go crazy or go subtle, just enjoy it and then ride it ;)

not much of a current project, just a few new additions.
New bars+ levers and saddle. White for the coming winter weather

First ride this morning with road levers and I've already grabbed the left one expecting it to do something

not much of a current project, just a few new additions.
New bars+ levers and saddle. White for the coming winter weather

First ride this morning with road levers and I've already grabbed the left one expecting it to do something

ftfy, looks good made, get a problem solver to double the brake levers up. how are you finding that saddle btw?

cheers Jack
loving the saddle (for all 30 mins of the ride in this morning) but the problem solver seems like a lot of money for what it is.

I'm sure some one does a cheaper copy, i suppose you can always tape the lever up. are those the levers you got off ebay btw? or did you buy new ones

bought new ones in the end
find me a cheaper alternative to the problem solver, must be something out there

This was my solution (cheap too)

I think mdcc_tester is comtemplating a smarter fix than this using a threaded rod of some kind

So today I've taken delivery of these lovely levers courtesy of Mr b'jammin.

Like all half decent levers they are sans return spring. I was contemplating getting some S900s at some point so had this in mind...

Anyway, had a go tonight and it's worked quite well.

I gutted a biro for the spring (kept the parts though, could be a restoration project in the future).

Inserted a brake outer cable ferrule into the hole from the back and threaded a cable through:

Trimmed the cable down a bit after trying the spring for size

Compressed the spring and crimped a cable end on. This picture shows how relatively unobtrusive it is with the hood back in place.

Here's gravity being defeated by a biro spring

And for further proof it works:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWqVJP8Owh4

(I did have to test it a full six times in case you ask)

I'll be trying it out on the clacton ride on sat so the proof will be then. If I pulled the lever hard it would definitely pop the cable end off, but I suppose I'd rather damage that than my lever! Plus, I'm used to riding with one connected lever only anyway.

This was my solution (cheap too)

the levers I have (tektro cheapos) return fine, I think I'd prefer it if I could somehow jam it solid so that I don't pull the lever with two fingers and jam the other two between lever and bars....especially in this cold weather, it aint nice

Is that a yay, or ney?, well I guess its too late ground off pump holder and rear brake cable guides today and sated stripping paint..
Im just waiting for the slaiting..

Facepalm moment.

the levers I have (tektro cheapos) return fine, I think I'd prefer it if I could somehow jam it solid so that I don't pull the lever with two fingers and jam the other two between lever and bars....especially in this cold weather, it aint nice

Ah! I've got SRAM levers on my winter shitter and have taped the other one up. Doesn't look too bad actually and is very effective

Ready for winter. Hammerited black (the frame was starting to rust up) and all sorts of bits which shouldn't be attached to a track frame, attached. Need a new crankset.

New wheels and a cassette with an extra cog and closer ratios to match my current location. Nice to not have massive gaps.

New wheels and new bars. Strangely I prefer deeper drops on a cross bike. I don't tend to use the drops apart from into stiff headwinds so the deeper the better.

Gazelle is excellent.

^ yeah, big fan of those

gazelle cx is damn nice, although I have to admit the drop looks somewhat out of place. But as you do have good explanation for that, doesnt matter. Really nice bike.

This was my solution (cheap too)

I think mdcc_tester is comtemplating a smarter fix than this using a threaded rod of some kind

Nifty idea T, they holding up like that?

^^^Liking the Gazelle CX, looks like some fun to ride, nice collection there J.Dennis

I got a bit further with the Merlin. Good to get some drops and DA on there.

Have had this Colnago Super resprayed. Have kept the original wheels. All looking good. The frame was resprayed very badly in the 80's. Much happier with it now.

do you mind me asking who sprayed it for you?