Polo Bikes

High BB so you can run extra long cranks?

Josh - yes

Jono - they're going to be changing to 300mm BB on newer frames

Max - rad

Giorgio from Mister X is very nice to deal with, I keep bugging him and he always comes back with good advice and friendly suggestions.

My old tyres were 1.25 front, 1.75 rear. Now switched to Kojak 1.35s, I don't think a 1.5 limit would be a problem. Probably need to consider tyre size vs trail though.

need a new rear tyre,
£30 for schwalbe super moto evo or £25 for maxxis dth or something cheaper?

i was considering basing my new frame on a 430 joust, but it is tiny! and toe overlap would probably be an issue... i think something inbetween the 430 and the 530

As you're smaller than other people you weigh less in theory, so following on this theory you won't need such a high torque output meaning that you can get away with shorter cranks.

i was considering basing my new frame on a 430 joust, but it is tiny! and toe overlap would probably be an issue... i think something inbetween the 430 and the 530

Definitely, the 530 has a 550 top tube, which would be too big for me. The 430 has a 530 top tube though... So maybe it'd be ok?

What are people's opinions on the Paul Motolite V brakes for polo use? Are they really as good as it gets when it comes to v brake technology? Or would i be better off buying some less pretty but just as efficient cheaper brakes?

xtrs are the best, paul's are the prettiest. IMO

I can't feel a difference in stopping power between Paul and other top V brakes, XTR/Avid Ultimate etc.

The real difference is that the Paul brakes give a lighter feel in the lever, so no wrist strain and easier modulation. I don't think they are that pretty really either, look very industrial to me, but they work which is the point. IMO

They are pretty! Pretty expensive. I'm in two minds wether or not they are worth shelling out for.

I think they cost about the same as XTR don't they?

Just did some market research and the XTR's generally work out slightly cheaper. Checked on some other forums and general concensus is that Motolites although initially more difficult to set up than other v brakes, are "Better than any disc brake set up" which i'll take with a pinch of salt and " Better than it's rivals" i.e XTR's. I think i'll treat myself to a pair.

initially more difficult to set up than other v brakes.

thought they were very easy to set up- had mine for a while and think there great, easy on the wrist and great stopping power. I also really like the way they look.

They're easy to set up, it's just a different way to do it.

i use xtr lever which is great, just not with a shit v brake. anyone want to swap a right handed xtr lever for a left handed one?

https://www.lfgss.com/thread74277.html#post2472397

chukker wheelset,tubes,tyres and sprocket. £150.

I asked Giorgio from Mister X about some changes to the original geometry or their frames.

It was suggested that the rear end is too slack and when I suggested shorter chanistays

Considering they have developed the frame and rider tested it, seems to me that changing the geo would be a bad idea.
The geometry is as it is because it feels good, not because they just thought some numbers up and made a frame.
You can't 'improve' on their design having never ridden it.. and anyone suggesting improvements is just speculating...

Considering they have developed the frame and rider tested it, seems to me that changing the geo would be a bad idea.
The geometry is as it is because it feels good, not because they just thought some numbers up and made a frame.
You can't 'improve' on their design having never ridden it.. and anyone suggesting improvements is just speculating...

Well said.

hey guys,
i'm thinking of swapping out my current polo set up, and building up a gorilal kilroy for the task. i know they front end is somewhat slack, so i was going to ask if any of you could suggest ways of making it more polo specific. i was thinking about a 14 style 0 rake fork, but not sure if that's the way to go.
also, while i'm currently on 700c wheels, apart from 'snappier' handling, is there much difference with 26"s? i don't have a mountain bike history, so never really ridden on them.
cheers

I think 0 rake is whack, go for a shorter fork, and try to end up with trail around the low 60s (mine is 63 I think)

so, to run a 700x35, what's the minimal a-c that would give enough clearance? with maybe 20mm rake?
was looking at the Identiti ffx forks. FFX-20 700c Fork, Fixie Freestyle, Cr-Mo, 9mm D/Outs, 20mm Offset, A-C 393mm 280S.

35mm stem?

35mm stem?

35mm tyre on a 700c wheel. i think that's the answer you were looking for.