-
• #51227
It changes the pull ratio from that of canti brakes to that of v-brakes
-
• #51228
What's sad here is that it's being used to make road levers work with road specific calipers.
The instructions (which blew open, whilst I was looking for something else obviously) state never ever to use the travel-mate if you have road levers and road caliper, as I do, or the result will be the sort of smoking crater that you get in a decent SF-B movie, with the ruins of the Statue of Liberty in the distance.
-
• #51229
there must be a prettier way, that is hot damn nasty!
-
• #51230
Still think hope should get their finger out and make a proper road/aero hydro lever, for cyclo cross if nothing else (their solution for road/aero cable levers > hydro convertor is gorgeous, but OTT).
if i'm right in thinking that they won't be able to make the shifting mechanism of STIs then there'd be no real point in them making a hydro lever.. the number of people running road bars and a single speed setup is surely not very many??
-
• #51231
Electronic shifting makes that a non-issue.
-
• #51232
How waterproof is the Di2 system though. You wouldn't want it to conk out mid rake because of poor seals.
-
• #51233
i'll have a think about what i could do or not and what i want.
WILL, you're missing the trick here. The whole point of having an old bike is not for the pleasure of riding it for miles or having people make 'nice bike mate' comments, but for building it wheels, yourself.
Check the hub bearings in the wheel you have. If they're ok, get a rim of the correct size (622 bsd) with the same spoke count, read up on the subject, do the maths and spend daft money on some Sapim spokes and get lacing.
Building a wheel is, oooh, more durable than sex, and is more satisfying than any other bike related job. And it's not rocket science. It's addictive. It can get expensive. Go. Then get a decent brake to replace that monstrosity. -
• #51234
How waterproof is the Di2 system though. You wouldn't want it to conk out mid rake because of poor seals.
Our intrepid Australian Canal Tester will doubtless upgrade soon, he can report back after his first sub-aqua race.
-
• #51235
There are people running dI2 on mountain bikes, so presumably its pretty reliable!
-
• #51236
Fair play, I'm a little behind on current tech. I know what welsh CX is like and it's hardly ever dry, a lot of it is routed though bog/marshes
-
• #51237
There is also no electricity.
-
• #51238
WILL, you're missing the trick here. The whole point of having an old bike is not for the pleasure of riding it for miles or having people make 'nice bike mate' comments, but for building it wheels, yourself.
Check the hub bearings in the wheel you have. If they're ok, get a rim of the correct size (622 bsd) with the same spoke count, read up on the subject, do the maths and spend daft money on some Sapim spokes and get lacing.
Building a wheel is, oooh, more durable than sex, and is more satisfying than any other bike related job. And it's not rocket science. It's addictive. It can get expensive. Go. Then get a decent brake to replace that monstrosity.Ok let's pretend you didn't post this because you're really not helping.
-
• #51239
There is also no electricity.
Don't take the piss, they've had mains power in Cardiff since the 1980s
-
• #51240
There is also no electricity.
It's all powered by magnets? Wow.
-
• #51241
So I posted aggggesss :/ ago about working on my single speed bike (built up from parts) and I finally got it all put together a month ago and forgot to post a photo. Obviously it's nothing special, but I like it. It's fun and fast. ;) I got a different saddle for it, but haven't taken an updated photo. I eventually want to upgrade bits and pieces as I go along, but for now it does its job.
-
• #51242
^How short are your legs and how long are your arms?!!?!
-
• #51243
? Normal sized for my height which is 5'6....
-
• #51244
Nice looking frame.
-
• #51245
Nice looking frame.
Really ?
-
• #51246
Agree that saddle looks relatively low, without seeing you sitting on it.
-
• #51247
^^ yes. I like that colour scheme with the chrome fork.
-
• #51248
What's sad here is that it's being used to make road levers work with road specific calipers.
The instructions (which blew open, whilst I was looking for something else obviously) state never ever to use the travel-mate if you have road levers and road caliper, as I do, or the result will be the sort of smoking crater that you get in a decent SF-B movie, with the ruins of the Statue of Liberty in the distance.
How bad was the brake before? I'm running a road specific BB7 with a Tektro R200 lever with no problem at all. Had to pull up quick the other day and the back wheel was up in the air in a second and that was pulling the lever from the hoods. I'm scared to use the brake when I'm on the drops.
-
• #51249
The instructions (which blew open, whilst I was looking for something else obviously) state never ever to use the travel-mate if you have road levers and road caliper, as I do, or the result will be the sort of smoking crater that you get in a decent SF-B movie, with the ruins of the Statue of Liberty in the distance.
Its a simple lever principle. If you pull more cable wth the same movement, the brake will actuate with less force. That said peple mix ad match road and mtb brake components all the time without dying, and i sounds like this set-up is better than it was before. So you must be able to unduce enough force on the pad/disc.
-
• #51250
Woo Hoo!
1 Attachment
Increases the amount of cable that is pulled, between the lever and the caliper.
In this application it is being used to make Sram integrated brake and shifter units work (for the first time like it's meant to!) with an Avid BB7