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@goodhead
It's a while since I was there (2005) but:
Do a houseboat / backwater tour, I just turned up a Alleppey and was lucky to get a good guy but was on my own. You might want to book in advance.
Spend a couple of days in Cochin. General vibe is nice (old Portuguese town) and you can go down to the harbourside & get fresh fish cooked however you want it if the nets are catching. Good photo stuff.
-Kovalam and Varkalai beaches are OK. If I remember rightly Varkalai was nicer as you got less hassle (expect hassle from vendors but nothing too bad) and there was a clifftop cinema / cafe.
Ask around - I went to lots of places I can't remember the name of by talking to guesthouse workers/auto-rickshaw drivers. People are extremely friendly. You may get asked for money but I was also invited into people's houses/workplaces with no hidden agenda generally - generally trust people who are trying to help
Enjoy the food! Seafood is plentiful/cheap and fresh - Keralan food is awesome
If you want specifics (guesthouses etc.) pm me and I can probably dig them out but in reality you're probably best off looking in the Lonely Planet & sorting yourself as I imagine things have changed.
One tip - virtually all guesthouses have e-mail and speak English. It's worth e-mailing/calling to book yourself into places you like the look of in the guides.
Have fun!